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YukonGlocker

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Shadowrider

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I've seen some arguments in several places about this, but in the end was convinced (maybe incorrectly) that it was the same process. However, their Melonite process wasn't outstanding anyway, so hopefully whatever they are doing differently is as good or better. What do you think it is?

It's most definitely NOT Melonite. It's a paint coating that appears to be baked on. Probably very similar to Ceracoat.

Melonite, CPQ, etc. is salt bath nitride heat treatment. Steel parts are covered in molten salt formulation for a time. It's a good process for firearms, very hard on the outside but still ductile in the core.

Now if they are applying this coating to steel that has been through the Melonite process, it's a definite improvement. As a matter of fact, if I were making my own gun and wanted the most "bullet proof" finish (functional, not appearance) that's exactly what I'd do. 17/4 stainless, precipitation hardened to about 30 rockwell C scale, then salt bath nitride, then ceracoat. That would be basically corrosion proof if the coating was not scratched. For alloy steel I'd do AISI 4340 heat treated to 32-34 Rockwell C, then manganese or zinc phosphate (parkerize) and ceracoat over that. You could drop both of these in the ocean for 100 years and pull it back up pristine.
 

YukonGlocker

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It's most definitely NOT Melonite. It's a paint coating that appears to be baked on. Probably very similar to Ceracoat.

Melonite, CPQ, etc. is salt bath nitride heat treatment. Steel parts are covered in molten salt formulation for a time. It's a good process for firearms, very hard on the outside but still ductile in the core.

Now if they are applying this coating to steel that has been through the Melonite process, it's a definite improvement. As a matter of fact, if I were making my own gun and wanted the most "bullet proof" finish (functional, not appearance) that's exactly what I'd do. 17/4 stainless, precipitation hardened to about 30 rockwell C scale, then salt bath nitride, then ceracoat. That would be basically corrosion proof if the coating was not scratched. For alloy steel I'd do AISI 4340 heat treated to 32-34 Rockwell C, then manganese or zinc phosphate and ceracoat over that. You could drop both of these in the ocean for 100 years and pull it back up pristine.
Yes, I know what the process is...but something wasn't quite "normal" with S&W's process (probably in conjunction with the particular type of stainless steel they used). I've also heard they are doing Melonite, then applying a coating. They are clearly doing that with the tan guns, but it's obvious if they are with the black ones.

I was set on trying a CZ this year, but I'm so invested in the M&P at this point that it may make better sense to try one of these instead.
 

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I've also heard they are doing Melonite, then applying a coating.

If that's what they are doing it's probably a helluva good finish. I've got 5 of the "old" M&Ps and the only rust I've ever had was due to me repeatedly sweating profusely in a match on 100+ degree days. My 9Pro developed a light spot behind the rear sight. You can't even tell it's there now. That's with no coating at all. They've been rained on repeatedly and sweat is all that's ever done a thing to them.
 

YukonGlocker

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If that's what they are doing it's probably a helluva good finish. I've got 5 of the "old" M&Ps and the only rust I've ever had was due to me repeatedly sweating profusely in a match on 100+ degree days. My 9Pro developed a light spot behind the rear sight. You can't even tell it's there now. That's with no coating at all. They've been rained on repeatedly and sweat is all that's ever done a thing to them.
I've found the old ones to be particularly vulnerable around the sights...not terrible or unmanageable...but not as resistant as a Glock.
 

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