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my how to "tan a coyote hide"...
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<blockquote data-quote="Tyson C." data-source="post: 1433472" data-attributes="member: 9534"><p><img src="https://www.okshooters.com/data/MetaMirrorCache/i1222.photobucket.com_albums_dd500_TKC78_C14.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>-after this time you can remove the hide and wring out as much water as possible. I just started at the head and ran my hands down ward wringing the extra water back into the pickling bin, just get it as dry as you can. Take the hide and place it meat side down on one of your wife’s favorite towel. Roll the towel up applying a little pressure as you go to help get some of the water out.</p><p></p><p></p><p>-once you think you have done a good enough job drying you can start to remove any more tissues or what I seen on the yote hide was darker looking gray areas’, try and remove or scrape this down. You need the skin to be as good and as dry as you can get. Like the guy said in my video “think of the hide as a sponge, the dryer it is the better it will soak up the tanning and oil solutions.” I let mine air dry for a couple hours because of the overall temp in my shop. so I fired up the wood stove with a box fan blowing behind it to get some hot air moving across it. I did not get it bone dry but good enough I thought.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p><strong><u><span style="color: Red">PART 4--tanning/oiling</span></u></strong></p><p></p><p><img src="https://www.okshooters.com/data/MetaMirrorCache/i1222.photobucket.com_albums_dd500_TKC78_C15.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>With the skin as good and as dry as you could get with as much tissue out of the way it is time to apply the tanning solution. Simply pour the tanning solution out of the bottle and onto the hide. Take your paint brush and spread the tanning solution around the meat side of the skin. The purpose of the tanning solution is to soak into the hide and help lock the hairs in place.</p><p>-let the tanning solution set for 12hrs. if working with a deer or a thicker type hide you can apply another layer of tanning also and allow to set for another 12hrs if you want. This just depends on the thickness of the hide.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://www.okshooters.com/data/MetaMirrorCache/i1222.photobucket.com_albums_dd500_TKC78_c16.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>- you do not want the hide bone dry but a little dry. You will notice that the hide will start to look “whiter” in some of the dryer area’s, don’t panic this is ok. Around the edge of the hide will dry faster than the center because the edges are thinner.</p><p></p><p>-Time to apply the oil; you want to use: 1cup hot water=1/2 cup of oil---this is plenty to do a coyote hide. I cut up one of my vinegar bottles to use as a mixing bowl. </p><p></p><p>-poor the oil on the hide and spread with a paint brush.</p><p></p><p>-let the oil soak for 24hrs.</p><p></p><p>-once I let the first oil setting soak in I began to start "working" the hide. I started pulling around the edges and working my way to the middle. You can run the hide over the table edge or over the edging of you PVC piece. As you’re stretching the hide you notice it starts to change color as it begins to separate. This is good, it is showing that things are drying out well and the oil is allowing it to become soft and gently separate.</p><p></p><p>-I applied another layer of oil after working the hide a little the first time. I let the second coat set also for 24hrs.</p><p></p><p>-after letting the second oil set I worked the hide again. For those that played baseball and had a well broke in mit, you know where I’m coming from. My goal is to have this hide very pliable and soft. So working the hide fast was my goal this time. The more you work the hide and oil the more “broken in” it becomes. I ended up applying a total of 4 oil settings.</p><p></p><p><strong><u><span style="color: red">PART 5-- Finishing</span></u></strong></p><p></p><p>-once the hide is nice and dry and to your liking you can take a rough grit piece of sandpaper (80 grit is what I used) and start buffing down any high spots or rougher pieces that you may run across. You can even use a palm sander just don’t get crazy and burn threw the hide. You can start out rough and work your way down to the finer grit if any scaring is not to your liking.</p><p></p><p>-while sanding the hide down you can start to sprinkle some baby powder along the hide rubbing it in a little to help rid the chemical smells and make the hide a nicer clean smell and also to help soften it some.</p><p></p><p>Well I have came to my end, hopefully everything went great for you and your finished piece is to your liking and that you have a nice hide to throw over the couch, your feet, or maybe a rug or to hang up on the wall and show it off with the rest of your hard work.</p><p></p><p>thanks for your time</p><p>Tyson</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tyson C., post: 1433472, member: 9534"] [img]https://www.okshooters.com/data/MetaMirrorCache/i1222.photobucket.com_albums_dd500_TKC78_C14.jpg[/img] -after this time you can remove the hide and wring out as much water as possible. I just started at the head and ran my hands down ward wringing the extra water back into the pickling bin, just get it as dry as you can. Take the hide and place it meat side down on one of your wife’s favorite towel. Roll the towel up applying a little pressure as you go to help get some of the water out. -once you think you have done a good enough job drying you can start to remove any more tissues or what I seen on the yote hide was darker looking gray areas’, try and remove or scrape this down. You need the skin to be as good and as dry as you can get. Like the guy said in my video “think of the hide as a sponge, the dryer it is the better it will soak up the tanning and oil solutions.” I let mine air dry for a couple hours because of the overall temp in my shop. so I fired up the wood stove with a box fan blowing behind it to get some hot air moving across it. I did not get it bone dry but good enough I thought. [B][U][COLOR="Red"]PART 4--tanning/oiling[/COLOR][/U][/B] [img]https://www.okshooters.com/data/MetaMirrorCache/i1222.photobucket.com_albums_dd500_TKC78_C15.jpg[/img] With the skin as good and as dry as you could get with as much tissue out of the way it is time to apply the tanning solution. Simply pour the tanning solution out of the bottle and onto the hide. Take your paint brush and spread the tanning solution around the meat side of the skin. The purpose of the tanning solution is to soak into the hide and help lock the hairs in place. -let the tanning solution set for 12hrs. if working with a deer or a thicker type hide you can apply another layer of tanning also and allow to set for another 12hrs if you want. This just depends on the thickness of the hide. [img]https://www.okshooters.com/data/MetaMirrorCache/i1222.photobucket.com_albums_dd500_TKC78_c16.jpg[/img] - you do not want the hide bone dry but a little dry. You will notice that the hide will start to look “whiter” in some of the dryer area’s, don’t panic this is ok. Around the edge of the hide will dry faster than the center because the edges are thinner. -Time to apply the oil; you want to use: 1cup hot water=1/2 cup of oil---this is plenty to do a coyote hide. I cut up one of my vinegar bottles to use as a mixing bowl. -poor the oil on the hide and spread with a paint brush. -let the oil soak for 24hrs. -once I let the first oil setting soak in I began to start "working" the hide. I started pulling around the edges and working my way to the middle. You can run the hide over the table edge or over the edging of you PVC piece. As you’re stretching the hide you notice it starts to change color as it begins to separate. This is good, it is showing that things are drying out well and the oil is allowing it to become soft and gently separate. -I applied another layer of oil after working the hide a little the first time. I let the second coat set also for 24hrs. -after letting the second oil set I worked the hide again. For those that played baseball and had a well broke in mit, you know where I’m coming from. My goal is to have this hide very pliable and soft. So working the hide fast was my goal this time. The more you work the hide and oil the more “broken in” it becomes. I ended up applying a total of 4 oil settings. [B][U][COLOR="red"]PART 5-- Finishing[/COLOR][/U][/B] -once the hide is nice and dry and to your liking you can take a rough grit piece of sandpaper (80 grit is what I used) and start buffing down any high spots or rougher pieces that you may run across. You can even use a palm sander just don’t get crazy and burn threw the hide. You can start out rough and work your way down to the finer grit if any scaring is not to your liking. -while sanding the hide down you can start to sprinkle some baby powder along the hide rubbing it in a little to help rid the chemical smells and make the hide a nicer clean smell and also to help soften it some. Well I have came to my end, hopefully everything went great for you and your finished piece is to your liking and that you have a nice hide to throw over the couch, your feet, or maybe a rug or to hang up on the wall and show it off with the rest of your hard work. thanks for your time Tyson [/QUOTE]
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