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The Range
Rifle & Shotgun Discussion
My Kentucky Long Rifle Build
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<blockquote data-quote="druryj" data-source="post: 3331750" data-attributes="member: 10465"><p>Going back to what I what I was trying to explain in post #26: The barrel tang has to sit down in the stock correctly. (Duh). The lock plate, which has the sear and tumbler on the back side, is tripped by the trigger, which is held in at the bottom of the stock by the tang screw, which passes through the tang on the barrel.</p><p></p><p>Pics may be more helpful to understand the relationship of the parts. Hopefully, you can see how I was able to make it work by setting the barrel tang a <u>tiny</u> bit deeper in the top of the stock, thus allowing the tang screw to<em> tilt ever so slightly forward</em> to go through and properly engage the threads in the trigger plate. I then lightly sanded down the top of the stock to align it with the tang of the barrel. We are talking very small amounts of wood that need to be removed where the tang sits. I mean; I just sort of scraped it a bit with a sharp carving blade, then checked. Scraped and checked, scraped and checked etc...until it all fit <em>exactly </em>as it should. Part of the challenge is also not screwing up the interaction of the hammer and the nipple, which you could easily do if you take too much off. I didn't. I will be able to show that relationship better, how the hammer will fall on the cap which is on the nipple and thus ignite the powder and launch a .50 caliber ball at high speed out of the big hole on the muzzle end once I put it all together when finished. It is going to work!</p><p><img src="https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200303/1f759771f3658554f1a40e9c09852e8f.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /><img src="https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200303/33941c72c341f0451112c17d0659ef18.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /><img src="https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200303/1d6ffaa14c4ef9eb1bb0e5099b961617.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="druryj, post: 3331750, member: 10465"] Going back to what I what I was trying to explain in post #26: The barrel tang has to sit down in the stock correctly. (Duh). The lock plate, which has the sear and tumbler on the back side, is tripped by the trigger, which is held in at the bottom of the stock by the tang screw, which passes through the tang on the barrel. Pics may be more helpful to understand the relationship of the parts. Hopefully, you can see how I was able to make it work by setting the barrel tang a [U]tiny[/U] bit deeper in the top of the stock, thus allowing the tang screw to[I] tilt ever so slightly forward[/I] to go through and properly engage the threads in the trigger plate. I then lightly sanded down the top of the stock to align it with the tang of the barrel. We are talking very small amounts of wood that need to be removed where the tang sits. I mean; I just sort of scraped it a bit with a sharp carving blade, then checked. Scraped and checked, scraped and checked etc...until it all fit [I]exactly [/I]as it should. Part of the challenge is also not screwing up the interaction of the hammer and the nipple, which you could easily do if you take too much off. I didn't. I will be able to show that relationship better, how the hammer will fall on the cap which is on the nipple and thus ignite the powder and launch a .50 caliber ball at high speed out of the big hole on the muzzle end once I put it all together when finished. It is going to work! [IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200303/1f759771f3658554f1a40e9c09852e8f.jpg[/IMG][IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200303/33941c72c341f0451112c17d0659ef18.jpg[/IMG][IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200303/1d6ffaa14c4ef9eb1bb0e5099b961617.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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