If you only have one .308, neck sizing is the way to go after the first firing. The case is fire formed to your chamber.
Sort of ..
I tested that theory and done a lot of measuring in the process and the case when neck sized will not be the same on the first neck sizing as it is on the second or third or fourth , each time you shoot it and neck size it the case will grow tighter and tighter until you get a stiff bolt on closing.
The case will also continue to grow in length and will need trimmed eventually.
I did the test on a .308 Lapua case I wanted to see when the case would fail.
https://www.okshooters.com/showthre...brass-there-will-be-more&highlight=fail+Lapua
I tried shooting 200 yards with neck sized vs FLS cases and my groups were better with FLS.
Each gun acts different though. And it is something you will need to experiment with if you do not want to leave any cards on the table.
I did modify my FLS die and it minimally sizes the case and only pushes the neck back less than .001". More reading for you.
https://www.okshooters.com/showthre...y-licks-does-it-take&highlight=how+many+licks
I tested that theory and done a lot of measuring in the process and the case when neck sized will not be the same on the first neck sizing as it is on the second or third or fourth , each time you shoot it and neck size it the case will grow tighter and tighter until you get a stiff bolt on closing.
The case will also continue to grow in length and will need trimmed eventually.
I did the test on a .308 Lapua case I wanted to see when the case would fail.
https://www.okshooters.com/showthre...brass-there-will-be-more&highlight=fail+Lapua
I tried shooting 200 yards with neck sized vs FLS cases and my groups were better with FLS.
Each gun acts different though. And it is something you will need to experiment with if you do not want to leave any cards on the table.
I did modify my FLS die and it minimally sizes the case and only pushes the neck back less than .001". More reading for you.
https://www.okshooters.com/showthre...y-licks-does-it-take&highlight=how+many+licks
There are a lot of differing opinions on neck sizing vs FLS.
Semi Auto's work best with FLS. Bolt guns in my experience, and the experience of a lot of internet sites related to precision shooting pretty much say to go for neck sizing to gain the most accuracy.
I will say that there are a couple of sites that have equal testing showing FLS produces the best accuracy in their guns. I can list the web sites, but its probably just as easy for the OP to google "neck sizing vs Full length sizing", and do some reading.
What it boils down to is shoot what works best for the gun you want accuracy out of.
Semi Auto's work best with FLS. Bolt guns in my experience, and the experience of a lot of internet sites related to precision shooting pretty much say to go for neck sizing to gain the most accuracy.
I will say that there are a couple of sites that have equal testing showing FLS produces the best accuracy in their guns. I can list the web sites, but its probably just as easy for the OP to google "neck sizing vs Full length sizing", and do some reading.
What it boils down to is shoot what works best for the gun you want accuracy out of.
Agreed. If I am loading a particular round for only one rifle, I'm not going to re-size the cases any more than necessary. They are now form-fitted to that chamber. Why over-work the brass? I have never noticed that accuracy suffered from only NS, but I haven't done any exhaustive studies either.
I use the Redding type S 3 die set with a bushing neck sizing die but I also use the FL resizer die every third loading. The FL resizing does not touch the neck. I also anneal all my brass on the third loading as well because continued reloading will harden brass which will reduce life expediency. Annealing softens the brass which brings back the "springiness" of the material. If you don't FL resize on occasion you will eventually experience hard chamberings (reduced head space) due to brass flowing toward the neck.
Accurate reloads come from consistent reloading. Especially if your shooting longer ranges. If I were you I would set a schedule to anneal and FL resize.
Accurate reloads come from consistent reloading. Especially if your shooting longer ranges. If I were you I would set a schedule to anneal and FL resize.
you can also have dies made or take cheap lee dies and hone the die body out some and I have honed one where the neck is no longer sized.
Basically made a body sizing die.. then run the case through the lee neck sizer.
Many ways to get to the point of minimal brass sizing which greatly reduces case stress.
But for accuracy you may find that the OAL of the round makes much more difference in accuracy than how you size the case.
When searching for accuracy take a note of how much pressure is needed to seat each bullet.
I found with R-P and Federal brass I was having some bullets seat easily and some seat really hard. This showed up on paper as fliers.. you really notice this when you get out to 200 yards.
I settled on Winchester brass that was purchased as loaded ammo. This gave the most consistent seating forces and best groups in my .308 and .243.
I then acquired a handful of Norma brass for the .243, WOW I was now shooting tighter groups with this brass than my best Winchester brass.
I then decided to buck up and get some Lapua brass for my .308 as the Winchester I had was failing (due to pushing the shoulder back too far) and stock getting low and what I was finding was not good.
Now all I shoot from my 243 and .308 is Lapua I almost feel I am wasting components if I load into other makes of brass.
here is a not impressive group with different loads shot at banner (100 yards) with a tall bipod on my .308,, no rear support other than my shoulder, I was not trying to shoot good group only empty the cases to reload them.
The loads in the group were 155amax with 44 gr IMR4064 and 168A max with 42.5gr RL15 and then 168Amax with 42.5gr varget and some with 42 gr varget
and one hot 178 a max round that shoots to the left.
I also found that my tightest groups at 100 yards are not my tightest groups at 200 yards and farther, So if you decide on a good load at 100 yards and know you will shoot it farther then you need to shoot at paper to see how it groups farther out.
My best group at 100 yards was .376" but that opened way up at 150 ,, then my best group at 275 yards was 1.050" and at 100 yards that same load would print .75"
Fine with me to look so so at 100 if you hold together on out there.
Sorry if I may be off topic on your original question .
Just giving you things to think about,, I spent a lot of money and time chasing accuracy, it was fun though.
Oh yea the target I shot yesterday with the mixed loads I posted above.
Basically made a body sizing die.. then run the case through the lee neck sizer.
Many ways to get to the point of minimal brass sizing which greatly reduces case stress.
But for accuracy you may find that the OAL of the round makes much more difference in accuracy than how you size the case.
When searching for accuracy take a note of how much pressure is needed to seat each bullet.
I found with R-P and Federal brass I was having some bullets seat easily and some seat really hard. This showed up on paper as fliers.. you really notice this when you get out to 200 yards.
I settled on Winchester brass that was purchased as loaded ammo. This gave the most consistent seating forces and best groups in my .308 and .243.
I then acquired a handful of Norma brass for the .243, WOW I was now shooting tighter groups with this brass than my best Winchester brass.
I then decided to buck up and get some Lapua brass for my .308 as the Winchester I had was failing (due to pushing the shoulder back too far) and stock getting low and what I was finding was not good.
Now all I shoot from my 243 and .308 is Lapua I almost feel I am wasting components if I load into other makes of brass.
here is a not impressive group with different loads shot at banner (100 yards) with a tall bipod on my .308,, no rear support other than my shoulder, I was not trying to shoot good group only empty the cases to reload them.
The loads in the group were 155amax with 44 gr IMR4064 and 168A max with 42.5gr RL15 and then 168Amax with 42.5gr varget and some with 42 gr varget
and one hot 178 a max round that shoots to the left.
I also found that my tightest groups at 100 yards are not my tightest groups at 200 yards and farther, So if you decide on a good load at 100 yards and know you will shoot it farther then you need to shoot at paper to see how it groups farther out.
My best group at 100 yards was .376" but that opened way up at 150 ,, then my best group at 275 yards was 1.050" and at 100 yards that same load would print .75"
Fine with me to look so so at 100 if you hold together on out there.
Sorry if I may be off topic on your original question .
Just giving you things to think about,, I spent a lot of money and time chasing accuracy, it was fun though.
Oh yea the target I shot yesterday with the mixed loads I posted above.
I shoot Bench Rest and Long Range with mostly neck sized brass, but about every tenth firing, I full length size them and start again. I have several 303 Brit SMLE that all have loose chambers. If I full length size brass from them, my brass life is about 3 to 4 loadings. I have to keep each rifle's brass with each rifle, but that's the price of shooting old relics.. I neck size only for them.
I can't say I've ever noticed a huge advantage to neck sizing and, in fact, in one gun neck sized brass shot significantly worse than full length sized brass.
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