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The Range
Ammo & Reloading
Neck Sizing Questions
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<blockquote data-quote="1mathom1" data-source="post: 1272796" data-attributes="member: 11736"><p>+ Exactly. I have also used a match to "smoke" the neck when I could not find my sharpie. Kids!! If you use once fired factory brass, you'll likely find the first trimming to be the worst. Then once you've neck sized, trimming will be much less on subsequent firings. You'll quickly learn how often a case can be fired before it needs trimming again. Cases will last longer too. My FIL shoots a SMLE .303 Brit. When we first started loading for him we had not learned the tricks of neck sizing. Were triming a lot! Couple firings and we were seeing the dreaded bright ring just foward of the base indicating an imminent head separation. Then we went to neck sizing. Stopped having to trim as often and the cases were lasting several more firings before needing to be tossed. </p><p>Couple notes. 1)If you are loading for two different rifles in the same caliber keep the cases separate and dedicated to the same gun. Chambers are never exactly the same from gun to gun. I load .270 for both my son's Winchester M70 and my Ruger M77. Cases fired in the M70 then neck sized are tight in the Ruger....difficult bolt closing.</p><p>2)My old .30-30 doesn't like neck sized only cases. I have to full length size. Difficult to close the lever. You don't have the same chambering force like you do with a bolt "camming" shut in the event the cases are at the ragged edge of acceptable shoulder-to-base length. I have never loaded for a semi-auto but I have heard the same about them. Luckily the .30-30 is not too expensive to feed so an occasional box of shells doesn't hurt too bad.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="1mathom1, post: 1272796, member: 11736"] + Exactly. I have also used a match to "smoke" the neck when I could not find my sharpie. Kids!! If you use once fired factory brass, you'll likely find the first trimming to be the worst. Then once you've neck sized, trimming will be much less on subsequent firings. You'll quickly learn how often a case can be fired before it needs trimming again. Cases will last longer too. My FIL shoots a SMLE .303 Brit. When we first started loading for him we had not learned the tricks of neck sizing. Were triming a lot! Couple firings and we were seeing the dreaded bright ring just foward of the base indicating an imminent head separation. Then we went to neck sizing. Stopped having to trim as often and the cases were lasting several more firings before needing to be tossed. Couple notes. 1)If you are loading for two different rifles in the same caliber keep the cases separate and dedicated to the same gun. Chambers are never exactly the same from gun to gun. I load .270 for both my son's Winchester M70 and my Ruger M77. Cases fired in the M70 then neck sized are tight in the Ruger....difficult bolt closing. 2)My old .30-30 doesn't like neck sized only cases. I have to full length size. Difficult to close the lever. You don't have the same chambering force like you do with a bolt "camming" shut in the event the cases are at the ragged edge of acceptable shoulder-to-base length. I have never loaded for a semi-auto but I have heard the same about them. Luckily the .30-30 is not too expensive to feed so an occasional box of shells doesn't hurt too bad. [/QUOTE]
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