Need Automotive Help....

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68mustang

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76 sounds new enough for internally regulated. I'm betting it's that dura crap they sell. I worked at auto zone 2 weeks good riddance! My main story is they knocked over a cart of rotors and cracked a few and just filed them away to be sold.

Man you worked at autozone for two weeks so you must be a master and know the ins and outs of how they do business huh?
 

Brandi

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The battery has been tested, no issues there, and is pretty new. The car is driven several times per week, when it's not down for this power issue. I totally agree about the Auto Zone alternators, the next one will definitely be NAPA. The car usually starts right up, no dragging but the voltage meter will show it's not charging and as soon as you turn on the headlights or AC, the dash lights and everything dim way down and will die if you don't turn them off. We do have a voltmeter and she (it's my sisters car) did check something on it but I have no idea what, I don't know how to use a voltmeter myself.

I appreciate all the advice, it will be heeded. I'll give more info when I get it.
 

Jon3830

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The battery has been tested, no issues there, and is pretty new. The car is driven several times per week, when it's not down for this power issue. I totally agree about the Auto Zone alternators, the next one will definitely be NAPA. The car usually starts right up, no dragging but the voltage meter will show it's not charging and as soon as you turn on the headlights or AC, the dash lights and everything dim way down and will die if you don't turn them off. We do have a voltmeter and she (it's my sisters car) did check something on it but I have no idea what, I don't know how to use a voltmeter myself.

I appreciate all the advice, it will be heeded. I'll give more info when I get it.

If you have AAA give them a call and ask for battery service and they will test it in the car along with the alternator while it's under load.
 

68mustang

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Have u taken the car to autozone and have them test the alternator while its running and battery while in the car? If you want to keep blaming parts and just change them till you fix it (doubtful) then go right ahead. But I'm 90% sure this is a vehicle electrical issue. This is the reason auto parts with warranties are so expensive. Ppl just change them at the expense of the company remaning them and then parts stores overcharge, while wanting the parts from their suppliers cheap.
 

BadgeBunny

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Call Hilario ... He'll come out and take a look at it for you. His prices are really, really reasonable ... I'll PM you his number. That's all I know to do about cars when they go tits up ... and it's a lot cheaper than throwing money at a problem you can't figure out ... :lookaroun IMHO, of course ... no offense intended ... it's just I know how "some" men can be ... :lookaroun (Y'all social misfits can be as offended as you want ... :rotlfmao: :wink2:)
 

gfercaks33

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Man you worked at autozone for two weeks so you must be a master and know the ins and outs of how they do business huh?

No I left because it was a terible job full of bad employees and inferior products. I somewhat know my way around cars and I know what parts to avoid and dura last is at the top of that list.
 

NikatKimber

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It is also very possible that they are crappy Autozone alternators.

This! I went through three from AutoZone on my previous Bimmer. I bought there because they had it in stock and it was my DD. Won't make that mistake again.

There's probably a different problem. But *I'd* buy from somewhere else as well.
 

Relentless

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I know what you mean. Most rebuilders are out of the country now BTW.

All of the Mechanics I know use NAPA. None use Autozone. That is why I said what I did.

The autozone rebuilt starters for my Bronco were 1/2 the size of a Ford starter. I walked out.

This is new technology, my friend, the smaller one is a gear reduction starter and is considerably more powerful with much less weight and mass.


Leave it to Austin to come in here crashing parties, haha. I tell you what, even though it's against my religion to work on a corvette, I'll bring my little gal over to your car and check it out for you, if it has a faulty part on it, she'll tell me all about it. It won't just tell me if the alternator or battery or regulator is bad, it specifically tells me what in it is bad.

Here she is...

http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto+Meter/10...bc1q0MMjU_TeMA_M7KCVCE7lyyLCbl06TgaAjgs8P8HAQ
 

KOPBET

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You don't say one way or the other, but I assume the A/C is factory and not retrofit, and the alternator is the correct amperage for the car. Yes, as mentioned the 76 has an internal regulator.

You don't necessarily need Autozone to check your alternator, a simple voltmeter capable of measuring DC volts and AC millivolts will do the job. Lots of stuff on the web to show you how. The alternators are also pretty easily repaired with basic tools and $15 in parts from NAPA.

Old Corvettes are often grounding headaches. Check the ground strap from the engine block to the frame (remove bolts and clean) and the ground strap from the battery to ground. Check the voltage at the red wire on the back of the alternator. Measure DC volts with engine running, around 13-14 vdc. and A/C volts in the millivolt range. Make sure it isn't loose, but don't over tighten. Check the drive belt also, make sure it isn't severely glazed, loose or slipping.
 

Rod Snell

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Just to encourage you to look deeper, I chased similar symptoms in a Dodge and finally found the problem in the underhood wiring harness. To make it worse, it was intermittent, and caused problems like sudden battery discharge. When I restored the 1967 RT, I replaced the entire engine compartment wiring harness: aren't old cars fun!!
 

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