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cdschoonie

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I finally took @swampratt ’s game plan and started his annealing process.

I know this is subjective and nearly all opinion-based, so I’m sure I’ll take a beating for this, but such is life, and constructive criticism is welcome.

I’m in the “fine tuning” stages of my “Skip-Style” annealer, but I could no longer sit still, I had to dig my fingers in.

Here’s my first crack at annealing with a torch and drill…
 

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JEVapa

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I finally took @swampratt ’s game plan and started his annealing process.

I know this is subjective and nearly all opinion-based, so I’m sure I’ll take a beating for this, but such is life, and constructive criticism is welcome.

I’m in the “fine tuning” stages of my “Skip-Style” annealer, but I could no longer sit still, I had to dig my fingers in.

Here’s my first crack at annealing with a torch and drill…
Just make sure the heat line stays in that vicinity. You can't let the body get soft or the brass is toast. I drop mine in H2O to stop the heat process just to make sure it doesn't move into the body.
 

cdschoonie

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Just make sure the heat line stays in that vicinity. You can't let the body get soft or the brass is toast. I drop mine in H2O to stop the heat process just to make sure it doesn't move into the body.
I have heard it both ways, nearly equally, drop in water, don’t drop in water, possibly a shade on the drop in water side.

So as to consistency, I built the annealer. The big drum is nearly flawless, still working on the feeder. Anyway I have tuned in the heat and timing. Currently they are making right a 3/8” behind the shoulder crease. I think most of those posted are 1/4” behind. Is 3/8” behind ok, or adjust back to the 1/4”?
Thoughts? Advice? Prayers?
 

JEVapa

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The reason for the water is to stop the heating process. It doesn't do anything else.

I've seen guys not use water and the heat line goes down into the body when they aren't careful. Time on heat and consistent rotation.
 

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