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The Water Cooler
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Penetrating oils and test.
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<blockquote data-quote="swampratt" data-source="post: 3157965" data-attributes="member: 15054"><p>I did not want to dirty up the other thread speaking of penetrating oils.</p><p>I have relied on many methods of getting rusty bolts and plugs out of automotive engines and their other parts.</p><p>I have found Kroil does not work well at all for me and PB blaster is not great either.</p><p>Transmission fluid and Acetone worked ok.</p><p>Brake fluid works better than anything I have tried including heat i some situations.</p><p>Yes brake fluid.</p><p>Another top dog is Rust Buster with the zoom spout. You can get it at a supply house like Johnstone supply.</p><p></p><p>The hardest bolts or nuts to remove are on exhaust parts like the catalytic converter or exhaust manifolds.</p><p>I had one car with 250,000 miles on it and the Converter bolts would not budge even with heat.</p><p>Kroil was used Heat with candle wax was used PB blaster and Liquid wrench and again with the heat.</p><p>Nothing worked.. heat was last and then i let it cool and tried again and it was not budging.</p><p>I decided to try brake fluid..A buddy told me about it.</p><p></p><p>I applied it by dipping a paper towel piece into the brake fluid and applying it to the area wit the towel.</p><p>I let it set 20 minutes and came back and they both snapped loose with 1/2 the torque as was applying.</p><p></p><p>Yes I let the other penetrants set on there ..in fact I would try it after 10 minutes and then gave it 40 minutes of rest time and try again.</p><p></p><p>But that is rusty bolts on Iron or steel much different than a plumbing part that may have calcium making the parts bond together.</p><p>For that you need something that eats calcium like CLR or something.</p><p>When CLR first came out I tried it and it did not work for me.</p><p>Vinegar works for me. Or other acids.</p><p></p><p>Here is a rusted bolt test I found.</p><p>[MEDIA=youtube]xUEob2oAKVs[/MEDIA]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="swampratt, post: 3157965, member: 15054"] I did not want to dirty up the other thread speaking of penetrating oils. I have relied on many methods of getting rusty bolts and plugs out of automotive engines and their other parts. I have found Kroil does not work well at all for me and PB blaster is not great either. Transmission fluid and Acetone worked ok. Brake fluid works better than anything I have tried including heat i some situations. Yes brake fluid. Another top dog is Rust Buster with the zoom spout. You can get it at a supply house like Johnstone supply. The hardest bolts or nuts to remove are on exhaust parts like the catalytic converter or exhaust manifolds. I had one car with 250,000 miles on it and the Converter bolts would not budge even with heat. Kroil was used Heat with candle wax was used PB blaster and Liquid wrench and again with the heat. Nothing worked.. heat was last and then i let it cool and tried again and it was not budging. I decided to try brake fluid..A buddy told me about it. I applied it by dipping a paper towel piece into the brake fluid and applying it to the area wit the towel. I let it set 20 minutes and came back and they both snapped loose with 1/2 the torque as was applying. Yes I let the other penetrants set on there ..in fact I would try it after 10 minutes and then gave it 40 minutes of rest time and try again. But that is rusty bolts on Iron or steel much different than a plumbing part that may have calcium making the parts bond together. For that you need something that eats calcium like CLR or something. When CLR first came out I tried it and it did not work for me. Vinegar works for me. Or other acids. Here is a rusted bolt test I found. [MEDIA=youtube]xUEob2oAKVs[/MEDIA] [/QUOTE]
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