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Pink RV antifreeze to winterize boat

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by sh00ter, Oct 10, 2018.

  1. sh00ter

    sh00ter Sharpshooter

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    Lotta opinions online about the "proper way" to winterize an inboard marine engine. Reminds me of all the opinions on gun cleaning.

    My question is, in Oklahoma's climate, if I used -75F RV antifreeze and a kit to suck it into the motor while running on the trailer, will there be enough AFZ-to-H2O ratio to keep from cracking the block?

    Lotta folks say doing it the way doesn't get out all the water and instead you are better off to drain the water, then manually pour in the antifreeze with the motor off (or just leave it dry).

    This Camco kit I bought let me run 5 gallons through the motor so SURELY I got enough into the block to be safe in Oklahoma? I was looking for a easier way to do things and a lot of people on youtube vids intake the antifreeze with engine suction instead of draining and filling. I called a local marine dealer service dept and they told me that the only reason they pour is so they can use less product and make more money on their service (surprisingly honest). But even still I got people coming at me saying that there is some bypass and that even if I saw it running out of the exhaust (non-toxic stuff), there is still a chance not enough got in.

    What do you guys with boats do???
     
  2. ifishok

    ifishok Marksman

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    Your question requires me to ask a few questions,

    1. When you say inboard, do you mean inboard only or do you mean inboard/outboard? A inboard would be a competition ski boat, an i/o would be something like a bayliner or Baja.

    2. Do you store the boat outside or inside?

    3. Do you have a way of running the motor with a water hose hooked up?

    I ask these questions because every type of boat is different in the way they are winterized.


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  3. sh00ter

    sh00ter Sharpshooter

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    - inboard/outboard 4.3 V6
    - stored outside with a cover over it on side of house behind 8ft fence (somewhat protected from wind but outside none the less)
    - yes, this boat has a inlet in the engine compartment that feeds the raw water pump (so I don't even have to use muffs)
     
  4. ifishok

    ifishok Marksman

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    Okay, I hope this helps.

    Buy some fuel stabilizer and put the right amount in the fuel tank then fill it full of fuel so it mixes. You may want to take it to the lake and let the fuel run through the system.

    My last boat was an i/o and there were plastic water plugs on both sides of the block and in the exhaust manifolds, you should look for those and drain the old lake water from the block and then place the plastic water plugs back in the block once the water is drained from the block.

    If you could make a funnel/jug with a hose to hook up to the water inlet of the boat and to your funnel or jug, fill it with antifreeze and start the engine and keep the funnel/jug full of antifreeze while the engine is running.

    You could catch the extra antifreeze in a bucket as it’s discharged so you’re not wasting it, most i/o’s have the exhaust going out the middle of the prop.

    The most important thing is to make sure all the lake water is out and only antifreeze is in the engine block, hoses and water pumps.

    Stop the engine once you have the antifreeze through the block.

    FYI, there may be an impeller in the outdrive.

    Change the oil and oil filter and spray some fogging oil in each cylinder by removing the spark plugs, spray and reinstall the spark plug.

    Now, I listed a lot of things and if you feel like you can’t do any of it, it may be worth having a boat mechanic perform this maintenance. If your block freezes then it’s $$$$$$$$$





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  5. TwoForFlinching

    TwoForFlinching Sharpshooter

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    Don't waste money filling your gas tank up with anti-freeze... Just a gallon will do it.
     
  6. sh00ter

    sh00ter Sharpshooter

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    Well I already used the Camco kit to essentially do what you described. I ran 5 gallons of AFX through it after I had already run it on the trailer to get the t-stat open. What I did not do, is drain the block/exhaust first because I had hoped if I ran it long enough with AFZ that it would replace most of the water without me having to drain it first. I should have drained it first; otherwise I did as you described. I fogged it through the carb and used the fogging oil to stall the engine once most of the AFZ was out of the tank. I do fog with plug holes on my PWC but on the boat I just used the lazy method through the carb. I think I will just drain the block and exhaust and fill it cold (engine off) with 100% AFZ just to be certain...The impeller on this boat is on the front of the motor and I replaced it a couple months ago myself, as well as the circulation pump and t-stat.

    I had REALLY hoped using the Camco kit when the t-stat was open would get enough AFZ into the system so I didn't have to worry...I bet it did, but not sure if I want to bet a cracked engine...thanks for the reply...as to the other guy's reply, I assume he was just trying to be funny?
     
  7. ifishok

    ifishok Marksman

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    I have an inboard ski boat now, so all I do is run gas stabilizer all the way through the fuel system then with the engine still warm drain and change the oil and filter, spray fogging oil in each plug and drain the block of water. Pretty simple and easy.


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  8. dennishoddy

    dennishoddy Sharpshooter

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    Anti freeze in the gas tank? I think not.
     
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  9. TwoForFlinching

    TwoForFlinching Sharpshooter

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    Forgot my /sarcasm tag
     
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  10. Lakenut

    Lakenut Sharpshooter

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    Just drain the block and manifolds. Undo the hoses....No water, no freezing.
     

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