Pistol Reloading Newbie - Bullet Depth for 38Spl

[aabokla]

Slowly working my way into reloading pistols for Cowboy Action Shooting in 38 Special. Using Missouri Bullet Company coated bullets, model Cowboy #17, 125 grain RNFP into once fired 38special brass. I have not crimped my reloads yet.

I'm not sure how far down i should be pushing the bullet. To where point A sits with the shell rim or to point B which gives me a OAL of 1.48. Seating to point B shows the point A line. Does that matter? Compared to a round nose cartridge from Federal AM Eagle the 1.48 just looks odd...but maybe that's how it's supposed to look? Seating to Point A looks really strange. Hoping smarter folks than me can help me out. Thanks!

 

[swampratt]

I do not crimp my cast bullets.
One reason is they are soft cast and do not set back when firing.
So if it was my 38 loads i would probably end up around your 1.41 set.
That first groove from the base of the bullet is actually a lube groove where some sort of grease/wax type lube went and the second groove would have some but that second groove is where the crimp usually goes.

1.48" may not even fall into the cylinder all the way.

 

[PanhandleGlocker]

Seat to what your manual states I think.

Those grooves are not necessarily the spot you’re supposed to crimp. They are lube grooves me thinks.

I’m still a newbie so someone correct me if I’m wrong,

 

[ssgrock3]

At 1.35, you are damn near making wadcutters I don't have a reloading book handy, but most with aquick google can get the info you seek. handloads.com is a great resource

 

[Cowcatcher]

Here’s a picture from my Lee book.

 

[OKCHunter]

It looks to me like groove "A" is where the bullet is to be crimped and groove "B" is for lube. But it does look odd. Maybe call Missouri Bullet Company? The cartridge overall length is not as critical as the cartridge base to ogive length. Just eyeballing, the factory cartridge base to ogive looks similar to the cartridge with an overall length of 1.35. I think the first crimping groove is needed if using the cartridges in a tubular magazine associated with lever action rifles.

 

[retrieverman]

My 38 spl 148 gr wadcutters have a 1.216 OAL, and the 158 gr cast hollow points have a 1.456 OAL.

 

[Rod Snell]

Crimp your lead cowboy action bullet in the top groove (A). This will be the right answer for 99% for the ordinary lead bullets you load for .38 Spl, especially the mild Cowboy Action loads. Over the last 50 years, I've loaded a truckload of them for .38 Spl revolvers, and loading is much simpler with them than with say, 9mm in various semi-autos. Don't overcrimp or overthink .38 Spl.

 

[rickm]

I was fixing to say with a lite cowboy action load the top groove would be the crimp groove the bottom groove is the lube groove.

 

[Ahall]

Top groove is the crimp groove
Bottom is for lube

With a cowboy load a light crimp should be fine
Don’t go nuts with the case mount expander either. The working of the rim will work harden the brass. As it hardens, it looses ductility and eventually cracks.

With stout loads an uncrimped bullet can back out of the case and if long enough jam the cylinder in your revolver. Not much fun when the offending round is on the left and the cylinder comes out on the right side of a gate loaded single action
Learned that lesson 30 some years ago. Don’t need a refresher course

Recoil will also shift a loose bullet in a magazine

Lubricant in the lower grove helps to prevent leading of the bore

I use a lube/ resizing press for my cast lead. There are other options with low start up costs.
A google search should introduce you to several of them.

You will find that the black powder cartridge shooters have done a lot in this area because they use the lube to control powder fouling and to lubricate

With smokeless powder you don’t have to go as far down that rabbit hole

If you are shooting cast lead you should read layman’s reloading manual for cast lead bullets if you have not already done so