@Timmy59
My disclaimer.... I always recommend hiring a licensed electrician. What you do on your own you do assuming any and all liability. Im providing information for academic purposes. Someone who would take on a project like this should have an idea of what you are doing, know and abide by safe practices and know how to test your installation prior to putting it into service.
Now that that is out of the way
I think that is a run-o-the-mill BR125A loadcenter. The top right 2 spaces next to the bolted 100A main should be blank on the buss (not usable). The interlock kit you linked are built stout but they want a pretty penny for them. The OEM kit made by EATON is half the price and I think UL listed for that assembly The part number is BRMIKBR. You'll need to relocate the dryer CKT to somewhere else on the panel and re-use that space for the generator breaker. Hopefully you have space or you'll need to use some tandems or a quad.
$31 for a BR230 breaker is a lot. I know they are hard to find right now but sheesh they should be like $12 in the big box store If you cant find one call locke supply and see if they have on on the shelf.
Make sure you get a 30A inlet. They are all over Amazon for $40-50 Id recommending getting one with a solid cover. Some are just thin squishy plastic crap. Here is one of many examples .... https://www.amazon.com/Rophor-Gener...eywords=generator+inlet&qid=1628027814&sr=8-3
A 25' cord can be found for $50-ish Here is a link to the champion one that matched your generator https://www.amazon.com/Champion-250...ds=generator+inlet&qid=1628027814sr=8-15&th=1
OEM Interlock kit $80
Breaker $12
30A inlet $40
25' cord $50
TOTAL $182
My disclaimer.... I always recommend hiring a licensed electrician. What you do on your own you do assuming any and all liability. Im providing information for academic purposes. Someone who would take on a project like this should have an idea of what you are doing, know and abide by safe practices and know how to test your installation prior to putting it into service.
Now that that is out of the way
I think that is a run-o-the-mill BR125A loadcenter. The top right 2 spaces next to the bolted 100A main should be blank on the buss (not usable). The interlock kit you linked are built stout but they want a pretty penny for them. The OEM kit made by EATON is half the price and I think UL listed for that assembly The part number is BRMIKBR. You'll need to relocate the dryer CKT to somewhere else on the panel and re-use that space for the generator breaker. Hopefully you have space or you'll need to use some tandems or a quad.
$31 for a BR230 breaker is a lot. I know they are hard to find right now but sheesh they should be like $12 in the big box store If you cant find one call locke supply and see if they have on on the shelf.
Make sure you get a 30A inlet. They are all over Amazon for $40-50 Id recommending getting one with a solid cover. Some are just thin squishy plastic crap. Here is one of many examples .... https://www.amazon.com/Rophor-Gener...eywords=generator+inlet&qid=1628027814&sr=8-3
A 25' cord can be found for $50-ish Here is a link to the champion one that matched your generator https://www.amazon.com/Champion-250...ds=generator+inlet&qid=1628027814sr=8-15&th=1
OEM Interlock kit $80
Breaker $12
30A inlet $40
25' cord $50
TOTAL $182
Thank you brother @tyromeo55 I got 3 of the 4 items located at lowes for $137.92 minus the vet discount which usually covers the tax. The BR230 breaker was $11.95. The reliance 30amp box was higher at $50, interlock $73. I'll need to pick up the cord and I have a couple coils of 12-2 romex. As you said the top right is non functional, R&L bottoms are not in use so it looks like I'm good to go, just need to relocate. Thank you again, looks like a savings of about $125.
Good deal
Use 10/3. For as short you’ll want to get it by the foot. If you can’t get it that way let me know and im sure to have a piece somewhere.
Also. If you move 110v circuits around make sure you keep them phase to phase you don’t want to overload a neutral. Let me know if you need me to clarify
BR230 OOS, I'm going to pm ya my ph# since I just may need more help. Sure do appreciate this bro.
Even the "licensed" contractors can be schmucks and do a piss poor job!
(I am not a fan of forcing anyone to be "licensed")
(I am not a fan of forcing anyone to be "licensed")
Although I can’t disagree with you about some contractors not knowing their head from a hole in the ground I can’t say I’m open to the idea for getting rid of licensing and inspecting all together. Especially after reading some of the recommendations posted on forums like this.
We’ve all seen some real zingers
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While I would never want to deny someone their rights to "permits" and their "so called" inspections, I would like the right to skip the permits and inspections!
2 thumbs up to @tyromeo55 for his help getting me squared away. Thank you.
