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The Range
Ammo & Reloading
processing wheel weight to ingots
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<blockquote data-quote="Reloading Rod" data-source="post: 3552697" data-attributes="member: 34658"><p>yes the small stick ones should be soft lead, you can use a side cutter pair of pliers to determine what is zinc and steel and what is lead, the zinc and steel ones will be much harder. Most of the time moisture will evaporate out when you heat the wheel weights, when you melt them do it a pot at a time and empty it before introducing new wheel weights, that way it will steam off any extra moisture. Stand up wind from the pot to keep away from the fumes. I prefer sawdust or pine chips (from pet store bedding) to flux with over wax, it seems to do better. When fluxing expect a flame so watch for that. I don't think the stainless steel pan will make a difference, but do not know for sure, I've always used cast iron. I usually ladle the lead out into my molds, rather than pouring out. I wear welders gloves and face mask, long pants and shirt.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Reloading Rod, post: 3552697, member: 34658"] yes the small stick ones should be soft lead, you can use a side cutter pair of pliers to determine what is zinc and steel and what is lead, the zinc and steel ones will be much harder. Most of the time moisture will evaporate out when you heat the wheel weights, when you melt them do it a pot at a time and empty it before introducing new wheel weights, that way it will steam off any extra moisture. Stand up wind from the pot to keep away from the fumes. I prefer sawdust or pine chips (from pet store bedding) to flux with over wax, it seems to do better. When fluxing expect a flame so watch for that. I don't think the stainless steel pan will make a difference, but do not know for sure, I've always used cast iron. I usually ladle the lead out into my molds, rather than pouring out. I wear welders gloves and face mask, long pants and shirt. [/QUOTE]
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processing wheel weight to ingots
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