Reloading 38Spl w/ W231 - dipper vs auto trickler vs Uniflow III

[swampratt]

Even if you just use the Lee dippers and Not weigh the dipped load you will see variances in weight.
Those dippers are tricky to make consistent.

The most consistent throws i get with the dippers is to hold one dipper and trickle powder into it with another dipper but DO NOT change the height from which the powder from dipper #2 is trickling from.
After the dipper is full then gently card it off.
If you tap it or bump it during the transition to carding it off then the weight will be off.

Just go 505 beam and you will be on the money.
OH but they discontinued that scale.

 

[red442joe]

Own yourself an RCBS 505 or 10-10 scale.
Absolutely worth it.

Joe

 

[mtnboomr]

I haven't reloaded in a long time so this may not be a help.
Before their current set of dippers (which are in Cubic Centimeters), Lee used to sell powder dippers with a three digit number that were in Cubic Inches (like "020" was .020 Cubic Inch of volume).
I saw a chart one time on the Internet that had both sets of dippers with the charge weights listed for a few of the common powders, but I couldn't find it again with a quick search.
(Of course, I would use a good scale and check the powder charges for myself before I would accept it as the Gospel.)

There was a statement from Lee several years ago that stated if you had the old red dippers (the cubic inch measurements) to stop using them immediately. The statement explained that the old "cu. in." volumes of the red dippers no longer corresponded to ANY modern powders and could potentially cause improper loadings that could be dangerous.

Lee stated that there are NO direct, or indirect, measurement correlations between the red and yellow dippers. This is likely why you couldn't find the chart.

 

[aabokla]

Based on several recommendations, I visited Jerry's Reloading in Tulsa and bought a powder baffle. WOW, what a difference it made! After getting dialed in, the thrown charge never went over by more than .1 gr and never less than .2gr...which for cowboy shooting for me is fine.

My biggest concern with W231 and a 158gr bullet is that I only have half a grain difference between minimum and maximum charges and I can't tell by looking at the case whether I'm significantly under or over. I wish that I could find some Trail Boss but was told at the store that Hodgon's inventory of that powder is predominately locked up in Australia due to some new export laws.

With that said, they also had the Lyman Gen6 setup on their reloading bench and just for the fun of it, we poured some W231 to see how it performed. Set it to 4.0gr and BAM just like that...way, way too easy.

At any rate, thanks guys! I really appreciated all of the comments.

 

[Vince 1340]

View attachment 351997Lee perfect powder measure, is cheap and after initial setup is accurate ...

It’s what. I use.

 

[Beautiful Mulberry]

Not sure what’s causing your issue but I’m going to guess technique is the culprit and not equipment. I’ve been using a Uniflow for decades and have never had such an issue. Consistent movement of the charging handle is important for the best results. I have noticed anything under 2.5-3.0 grains in my dispenser will cause the drum to hang up from time to time. I also use a beam scale and add a mark 1/10 a grain above and below and call that good enough. Different powders will throw better than others but W231 is one of the more forgiving IMO. You never mention what size bullet you’re using but 3.5 grains is on the low end of normal in my book.

I use w231 for my 45 and 9mm.
I went from the Uniflow to the Rcbs charge master. The CM is amazing! I found that when loading 380 or 9mm it does tend throw a few extra grains. I solved this 2 ways. When the CM dispenses powder it has 2 speeds. Hurry up and dump, then slow down For the final grains.

1. I went into the program- and slowed the rpm’s down when it’s dumping the final grains to where I was happy with it.

2. I took a McDonald’s straw cut it about 3/4-1in and inserted into the rotating tube thing that drops the powder all the way so the threads do not mess with the powder dropping.

Here is the YouTube video to help

 

[swampratt]

I have a lot of 231 and need to start using more of it vs my Bullseye and Red Dot.
I DO NOT shoot competition I just like to go plinking with buddies sometimes and it did not take me very long to empty an 8 lb jug of bullseye.

I didn't know I was shooting that much.

 

[panayoti]

For pistol I use an rcbs little dandy. Works well for me. Not sure if they still make it. Bought mine in 83.

 

[OneMoreEvan]

Personally, I just pour from the jar into the case until it's full and then cram the bullet down on top of it, more powder is more better right? I still have most of my fingers, so I must be doing something right

 

[swampratt]

For pistol I use an rcbs little dandy. Works well for me. Not sure if they still make it. Bought mine in 83.

I just looked at Midway USA and it is in stock $47 and 12 per rotor with 28 rotors available.
I actually made an Oak "reloading block" for a guy that had that Little Dandy with spots for all the rotors and a spot for the rotor knob.
29 large holes.
Pretty sweet when it was done and I hoped I would never have to make another one.