Reloading - Does the bullet really matter

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Pokinfun

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Thank you, I will. My methods are proven on paper, LR steel, and hunting.

You're the one asking questions not me. Apparently you have the answers too. Maybe if you didn't have that pesky "molded" chamber things would work out.

Good day to you
I do understand what you are saying about getting the closest possible tolerances when long range shooting. It think that guys who shoot long range are amazing, I cannot do it. I'm just not sure that telling someone to jam the bullet into the lands, or saying that using an OAL gauge is not accurate if not fire formed, when you are not measuring the diameter of the case, you are measuring the length of the cartridge.
I know it sort of turned in to a pissing contest versus a discussion, I am not the most tactful guy in the world. Everything on this forum seems to turn into a pissing contest, where everyone seems to have the need to win.
I would be interested in you doing a write up on every step you take when reloading. I am always interested in reading about reloading and distance shooting.
 

Jcann

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I try to help people when I can, Lord knows I've needed it in the past. There are numerous ways to determine COAL/CBTO. Some easy and some a little more difficult.

Here is another method one can use.
https://forum.snipershide.com/forum...nd-loading-for-long-range-3-finding-start-oal

This is why I say you need a fired formed case.
http://www.bergerbullets.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/COAL.pdf
Bryan Litz forgot more about reloading and ballistics than I'll ever know. He also has a YouTube channel. He is an aerospace engineer and chief ballistician at Berger bullets and ABM Ammo.

I use many of these steps but skip on a few of them. These guys are annal to a fault but their ultimate goal is to shoot small groups at long distance.
http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/reloading/complete-precision-case-prep/

Many of the steps mentioned in these articles are for precision long range shooting and may be a bit overkill for your application

Just remember, in everything you want to be consistent
 

Blitzfike

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Interesting discussion.. take a look with quickload or something like that at reducing case volume for a specific load and see what it tells you of predicted pressure/velocity. Some powders are way more sensitive than others to reduced case volume. For several years AA#5 was my goto powder for 9mm and 40 cal ammo. I experienced large jumps in velocity and apparent pressure signs with bullet setback from repeatedly rechambering a round and sticking it back in the top of the mag. It doesn't take much change with AA#5 to show that result. When the non lead copper bullets started coming in vogue, there were several articles about home machined copper bullets destroying guns. Machining driving bands, annealing the copper after forming and a variety of design changes have led us to reliable copper bullets today. Lots of good info in this discussion. As to neck sizing, I do that with collet dies on two calibers I shoot and that is to extend the life of the brass. The first is 22 Hornet and the other is 303 Brit. In both cases the chamber is considerably looser than the saami specs. The 303 Brit I can understand as they were mass produced in several different arsenals around the world, but both of my 22 Hornets are Savages and one is quite elderly.
 

OKCHunter

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I've mostly used Speer reloading manuals but I have others that I purchased for additional reference. I bought the latest Lee Reloading Manual a couple of days ago. Their approach is interesting for both primers and bullets. I could not find anywhere in the manual, for any cartridge, the primer brand used for the load. The recipes just state "small pistol", "large pistol", etc. Regarding bullets, they do give load recipes for specific bullets but most recipes are generic such as "150 grain jacketed". The book is heavy on the advise to start at the minimum and work up. That would be a must for me without a specific primer or bullet being specified.
 

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