Great info! I really liked the Wikipedia stuff showing what the dashes mean...as far as changes to the model.
Great info! I really liked the Wikipedia stuff showing what the dashes mean...as far as changes to the model.
@HMCS(FMF)Ret.
If you want a light, powerful revolver capable of shooting .357, look no further than the SW 340PD AirLite J-Frame. Scandium Alloy Frame with a Titanium Cylinder. Mine weighs all of 14 oz, loaded. But, it is a BEAST to shoot with .357 rounds for sure. Since you are a fellow member of the U.S. Naval Services, I'll just let you in on a little secret: It hurts like hell when you shoot the thing with .357's but it WILL shoot them if you will. With 148 gr wadcutters it is not bad at all for shooting at the range. I didn't say it was pleasant, I said not bad.
Regardless, I absolutely love this little gun. It weighs next to nothing, rides easily in a Sticky Holster IWB and the available power, big fiber optic front sight, and the very nice DA trigger on it makes it worthwhile, and worth the cost, to me. I take it with me every range trip and put a few cylinders down range. These little guns are expensive. A good used one probably runs $650 - $700. New, around $840 or so. And the Titanium cylinder is easy to mess up when cleaning; use no harsh abrasives, no brass brushes, and no weird stuff like brake cleaner or you risk stripping the finish. I clean with Breakfree CLP and no problems. Shoot .357 ammo only with a bullet weight above 120 grains, or the flash will erode the face of the cylinder in a very few rounds. It can also cause bullet set-back and that is no bueno. And read the manual; it tells you stuff like this. Basically, only shoot a heavy bullet in .357, I recommend 158 grains. When shooting .38's; bullet weight doesn't matter, you can shoot whatever grain in .38; as said, 148 gr wadcutters are my choice for the range. Plain old .38 special in 130 gr FMJ is okay too. Most people carry these with .38 +P anyway. Oh, the sister gun to the 340PD is the 360PD, it has an exposed hammer if you are into that. Me; I prefer the Centennial Style of the 340PD J-frame revolver with no exposed hammer in double action only.
Not wanting to spend that much? If you don't mind a few extra ounces, (and it's not really that noticeable), ANY of the S&W Airweights are +P rated and will do the job just fine. I like the 642 and the 442, although the 637 has an exposed hammer so you CAN fire it in single action if you like. Likewise the 638, the Humpback with a flush, concealed hammer is a good choice too. The Airweights can be found new for around $400-$425, sometimes you can catch a sale and get one for a bit less. A good used one will bring $300 - up. Personally, the Double Action 642 and 442 are superb little J-frames IMO. It's just that I think the 340PD is more superber. In fact, as small carry revolvers go, I'd even say it's the superb-est.
Get with me by PM if you'd like to go to the range and shoot mine. I'll even provide the ammo; both .38 and .357 for you to try out. Always glad to help out my Navy buddies; especially a Devil Doc. (Hee hee).
If you want a light, powerful revolver capable of shooting .357, look no further than the SW 340PD AirLite J-Frame. Scandium Alloy Frame with a Titanium Cylinder. Mine weighs all of 14 oz, loaded. But, it is a BEAST to shoot with .357 rounds for sure. Since you are a fellow member of the U.S. Naval Services, I'll just let you in on a little secret: It hurts like hell when you shoot the thing with .357's but it WILL shoot them if you will. With 148 gr wadcutters it is not bad at all for shooting at the range. I didn't say it was pleasant, I said not bad.
Regardless, I absolutely love this little gun. It weighs next to nothing, rides easily in a Sticky Holster IWB and the available power, big fiber optic front sight, and the very nice DA trigger on it makes it worthwhile, and worth the cost, to me. I take it with me every range trip and put a few cylinders down range. These little guns are expensive. A good used one probably runs $650 - $700. New, around $840 or so. And the Titanium cylinder is easy to mess up when cleaning; use no harsh abrasives, no brass brushes, and no weird stuff like brake cleaner or you risk stripping the finish. I clean with Breakfree CLP and no problems. Shoot .357 ammo only with a bullet weight above 120 grains, or the flash will erode the face of the cylinder in a very few rounds. It can also cause bullet set-back and that is no bueno. And read the manual; it tells you stuff like this. Basically, only shoot a heavy bullet in .357, I recommend 158 grains. When shooting .38's; bullet weight doesn't matter, you can shoot whatever grain in .38; as said, 148 gr wadcutters are my choice for the range. Plain old .38 special in 130 gr FMJ is okay too. Most people carry these with .38 +P anyway. Oh, the sister gun to the 340PD is the 360PD, it has an exposed hammer if you are into that. Me; I prefer the Centennial Style of the 340PD J-frame revolver with no exposed hammer in double action only.
Not wanting to spend that much? If you don't mind a few extra ounces, (and it's not really that noticeable), ANY of the S&W Airweights are +P rated and will do the job just fine. I like the 642 and the 442, although the 637 has an exposed hammer so you CAN fire it in single action if you like. Likewise the 638, the Humpback with a flush, concealed hammer is a good choice too. The Airweights can be found new for around $400-$425, sometimes you can catch a sale and get one for a bit less. A good used one will bring $300 - up. Personally, the Double Action 642 and 442 are superb little J-frames IMO. It's just that I think the 340PD is more superber. In fact, as small carry revolvers go, I'd even say it's the superb-est.
Get with me by PM if you'd like to go to the range and shoot mine. I'll even provide the ammo; both .38 and .357 for you to try out. Always glad to help out my Navy buddies; especially a Devil Doc. (Hee hee).
I'm eyeballing a couple. Looking for something else. 686+, or the 2" 66-2 in the Classies.
I’ve had perhaps two dozen revolvers, mostly S&W with a couple Rugers in the mix. I sold all but two, as I just couldn’t get comfortable with the long, heavy DA pull.
The two I kept are S&W Night Guards with a scandium K frame and 2 3/4” barrel. Those I kept because of all the hand guns I’ve shot, they point the most naturally. I can swing them up from my side and the sights will be squarely on the target when I stop my hand. Can’t really do that with any other pistol without a bit of adjustment at the end. I know practice makes perfect, but I’m talking *natural* pointing.
They’re pricey and not commonly seen for sale, but IMHO, they’re great if you don’t mind the large frame.
The two I kept are S&W Night Guards with a scandium K frame and 2 3/4” barrel. Those I kept because of all the hand guns I’ve shot, they point the most naturally. I can swing them up from my side and the sights will be squarely on the target when I stop my hand. Can’t really do that with any other pistol without a bit of adjustment at the end. I know practice makes perfect, but I’m talking *natural* pointing.
They’re pricey and not commonly seen for sale, but IMHO, they’re great if you don’t mind the large frame.
I actually have a 66-2 357 combat magnum 2.5 inch barrel (snub). Box&docs
Heck of revolver.
I'm a big fan of my Kimber K6S. So is my wife but she can go buy her own. They cost more than many other carry type revolvers but it's worth it in my opinion. I've got a thread around here somewhere comparing my k6S and my wife's s&w airweight. They are far apart in price but it's still a comparison.
I'm afraid to look at a K6S up close. I think it would cost me more than I usually care to spend on a handgun.
Fortunately I got a great deal on my 640 or I never would have known how much I like to carry a revolver.
Not selling, are you? lol
Similar threads
- Sub Category: Handguns
- Sale Price: 4200$
- Caliber: 218 Bee
