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<blockquote data-quote="druryj" data-source="post: 3297715" data-attributes="member: 10465"><p>[USER=12635]@HMCS(FMF)Ret.[/USER] </p><p></p><p>If you want a light, powerful revolver capable of shooting .357, look no further than the SW 340PD AirLite J-Frame. Scandium Alloy Frame with a Titanium Cylinder. Mine weighs all of 14 oz, loaded. But, it is a BEAST to shoot with .357 rounds for sure. Since you are a fellow member of the U.S. Naval Services, I'll just let you in on a little secret: It hurts like <em>hell </em>when you shoot the thing with .357's but it WILL shoot them if you will. With 148 gr wadcutters it is <em>not bad</em> at all for shooting at the range. I didn't say it was pleasant, I said <em>not bad</em>. </p><p></p><p>Regardless, I absolutely love this little gun. It weighs next to nothing, rides easily in a Sticky Holster IWB and the available power, big fiber optic front sight, and the very nice DA trigger on it makes it worthwhile, and worth the cost, to me. I take it with me every range trip and put a few cylinders down range. These little guns are expensive. A good used one probably runs $650 - $700. New, around $840 or so. And the Titanium cylinder is easy to mess up when cleaning; use no harsh abrasives, no brass brushes, and no weird stuff like brake cleaner or you risk stripping the finish. I clean with Breakfree CLP and no problems. Shoot .357 ammo only with a bullet weight above 120 grains, or the flash will erode the face of the cylinder in a very few rounds. It can also cause bullet set-back and that is no bueno. And read the manual; it tells you stuff like this. Basically, only shoot a heavy bullet in .357, I recommend 158 grains. When shooting .38's; bullet weight doesn't matter, you can shoot whatever grain in .38; as said, 148 gr wadcutters are my choice for the range. Plain old .38 special in 130 gr FMJ is okay too. Most people carry these with .38 +P anyway. Oh, the sister gun to the 340PD is the 360PD, it has an exposed hammer if you are into that. Me; I prefer the Centennial Style of the 340PD J-frame revolver with no exposed hammer in double action only.</p><p></p><p>Not wanting to spend that much? If you don't mind a few extra ounces, (and it's not really <em>that </em>noticeable), ANY of the S&W Airweights are +P rated and will do the job just fine. I like the 642 and the 442, although the 637 has an exposed hammer so you CAN fire it in single action if you like. Likewise the 638, the Humpback with a flush, concealed hammer is a good choice too. The Airweights can be found new for around $400-$425, sometimes you can catch a sale and get one for a bit less. A good used one will bring $300 - up. Personally, the Double Action 642 and 442 are superb little J-frames IMO. It's just that I think the 340PD is more superber. In fact, as small carry revolvers go, I'd even say it's the superb-est. </p><p></p><p>Get with me by PM if you'd like to go to the range and shoot mine. I'll even provide the ammo; both .38 and .357 for you to try out. Always glad to help out my Navy buddies; especially a Devil Doc. (Hee hee).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="druryj, post: 3297715, member: 10465"] [USER=12635]@HMCS(FMF)Ret.[/USER] If you want a light, powerful revolver capable of shooting .357, look no further than the SW 340PD AirLite J-Frame. Scandium Alloy Frame with a Titanium Cylinder. Mine weighs all of 14 oz, loaded. But, it is a BEAST to shoot with .357 rounds for sure. Since you are a fellow member of the U.S. Naval Services, I'll just let you in on a little secret: It hurts like [I]hell [/I]when you shoot the thing with .357's but it WILL shoot them if you will. With 148 gr wadcutters it is [I]not bad[/I] at all for shooting at the range. I didn't say it was pleasant, I said [I]not bad[/I]. Regardless, I absolutely love this little gun. It weighs next to nothing, rides easily in a Sticky Holster IWB and the available power, big fiber optic front sight, and the very nice DA trigger on it makes it worthwhile, and worth the cost, to me. I take it with me every range trip and put a few cylinders down range. These little guns are expensive. A good used one probably runs $650 - $700. New, around $840 or so. And the Titanium cylinder is easy to mess up when cleaning; use no harsh abrasives, no brass brushes, and no weird stuff like brake cleaner or you risk stripping the finish. I clean with Breakfree CLP and no problems. Shoot .357 ammo only with a bullet weight above 120 grains, or the flash will erode the face of the cylinder in a very few rounds. It can also cause bullet set-back and that is no bueno. And read the manual; it tells you stuff like this. Basically, only shoot a heavy bullet in .357, I recommend 158 grains. When shooting .38's; bullet weight doesn't matter, you can shoot whatever grain in .38; as said, 148 gr wadcutters are my choice for the range. Plain old .38 special in 130 gr FMJ is okay too. Most people carry these with .38 +P anyway. Oh, the sister gun to the 340PD is the 360PD, it has an exposed hammer if you are into that. Me; I prefer the Centennial Style of the 340PD J-frame revolver with no exposed hammer in double action only. Not wanting to spend that much? If you don't mind a few extra ounces, (and it's not really [I]that [/I]noticeable), ANY of the S&W Airweights are +P rated and will do the job just fine. I like the 642 and the 442, although the 637 has an exposed hammer so you CAN fire it in single action if you like. Likewise the 638, the Humpback with a flush, concealed hammer is a good choice too. The Airweights can be found new for around $400-$425, sometimes you can catch a sale and get one for a bit less. A good used one will bring $300 - up. Personally, the Double Action 642 and 442 are superb little J-frames IMO. It's just that I think the 340PD is more superber. In fact, as small carry revolvers go, I'd even say it's the superb-est. Get with me by PM if you'd like to go to the range and shoot mine. I'll even provide the ammo; both .38 and .357 for you to try out. Always glad to help out my Navy buddies; especially a Devil Doc. (Hee hee). [/QUOTE]
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