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The Range
Rimfire Weapons
Ruger 10-22 Sling
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<blockquote data-quote="henschman" data-source="post: 1371671" data-attributes="member: 4235"><p>Hey, I'm glad you're planning on coming to one of our events! </p><p></p><p>You generally want to avoid the band-mounted swivels. They do put tension on the barrel, especially in a good sling-supported position like we teach (I have removed the bands altogether from my 10/22s). Also, those band setups generally only come with 1" swivels. Even for regular non-barrel band swivles, it is hard to find swivels in anything other than 1" at any of the sporting goods stores. I occasionally see 1 1/4" swivels at a Wal Mart though.</p><p></p><p>I recommend 1 1/4" swivels, so you can use a GI web sling (M-1/M-14 issue). These can be used in several configurations to support the rifle. They are cheap, as well. We will teach you a couple of sling techniques you can use with any adjustable sling, but you won't be able to do a loop sling (which is the best for prone and seated) with just a regular sling. You can buy GI web slings from the Appleseed Store here: <a href="http://www.appleseedstore.flyingcart.com/?p=detail&pid=10&cat_id=0" target="_blank">http://www.appleseedstore.flyingcart.com/?p=detail&pid=10&cat_id=0</a>. Also, you can find a decent one in the $10/15 range on e-bay if you search for "M1 sling" or "m14 sling." I recommend an actual military issue sling (either used or current production) instead of a reproduction type... the locking mechanisms on some of the cheap repros tend to slip.</p><p></p><p>This is the type of stud and swivel set you need, with wood screws: <a href="http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=190783" target="_blank">http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=190783</a></p><p></p><p>Midway actually shows them out of stock currently, but you could get the wood screw studs you need here <a href="http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=887160" target="_blank">http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=887160</a> and some swivels here <a href="http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=684015" target="_blank">http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=684015</a></p><p></p><p>When you install the studs, you will want to drill your holes about an inch from the butt for the rear stud, and about an inch from the band for the front stud. If you take the stock off the action, the stock will lay flat while you drill. Drill a starter hole (I forget the bit size that is best to use, but it is best to start with one that is smaller than you think you'll need). If the hole is too small, drill out the hole with a bigger bit and try again. To get the threads on the stud started, so you can screw it into the stock, you can put the stud over the hole and whack the top of the stud with a hammer. To screw in the stud, put a nail or something through the hole. Do not use your swivels to screw it in... you might bend or damage them. Once you get it where it will screw all the way down, pull it back out, put a drop of loctite on the threads, put on the little washer the stud came with, and screw it in to final tightness.</p><p></p><p>The other main suggested mod for a 10/22 for Appleseed use is to get either some Tech Sights or a scope. While it is possible to shoot a Rifleman's score with the factory sights, it isn't easy. They are not ideal for precision marksmanship. Tech Sights give you battle rifle-style adjustable aperture sights (which nearly double the sight radius and simulate the sight picture of an M-1, M-14, or AR). They are sold here: <a href="http://www.tech-sights.com/" target="_blank">http://www.tech-sights.com/</a>. If you go with a scope, a low power scope (4x or less) is best, or at least one that can be turned down to low power.</p><p></p><p>I don't currently have any events on the schedule for Oklahoma, but I will hopefully have some open for registration soon. We will not be having another one until after the new year, but we ought to have shoots in January and February at Afton and El Reno. Grandfield is coming up again on April 16-17, 2011. If you don't want to wait, they're having a one-day shoot at Eureka, KS on Dec. 4.</p><p></p><p>Let me know if you have any other questions or if I can help you out in any way. Feel free to PM or e-mail me.</p><p></p><p>See you on the firing line!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="henschman, post: 1371671, member: 4235"] Hey, I'm glad you're planning on coming to one of our events! You generally want to avoid the band-mounted swivels. They do put tension on the barrel, especially in a good sling-supported position like we teach (I have removed the bands altogether from my 10/22s). Also, those band setups generally only come with 1" swivels. Even for regular non-barrel band swivles, it is hard to find swivels in anything other than 1" at any of the sporting goods stores. I occasionally see 1 1/4" swivels at a Wal Mart though. I recommend 1 1/4" swivels, so you can use a GI web sling (M-1/M-14 issue). These can be used in several configurations to support the rifle. They are cheap, as well. We will teach you a couple of sling techniques you can use with any adjustable sling, but you won't be able to do a loop sling (which is the best for prone and seated) with just a regular sling. You can buy GI web slings from the Appleseed Store here: [url]http://www.appleseedstore.flyingcart.com/?p=detail&pid=10&cat_id=0[/url]. Also, you can find a decent one in the $10/15 range on e-bay if you search for "M1 sling" or "m14 sling." I recommend an actual military issue sling (either used or current production) instead of a reproduction type... the locking mechanisms on some of the cheap repros tend to slip. This is the type of stud and swivel set you need, with wood screws: [url]http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=190783[/url] Midway actually shows them out of stock currently, but you could get the wood screw studs you need here [url]http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=887160[/url] and some swivels here [url]http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=684015[/url] When you install the studs, you will want to drill your holes about an inch from the butt for the rear stud, and about an inch from the band for the front stud. If you take the stock off the action, the stock will lay flat while you drill. Drill a starter hole (I forget the bit size that is best to use, but it is best to start with one that is smaller than you think you'll need). If the hole is too small, drill out the hole with a bigger bit and try again. To get the threads on the stud started, so you can screw it into the stock, you can put the stud over the hole and whack the top of the stud with a hammer. To screw in the stud, put a nail or something through the hole. Do not use your swivels to screw it in... you might bend or damage them. Once you get it where it will screw all the way down, pull it back out, put a drop of loctite on the threads, put on the little washer the stud came with, and screw it in to final tightness. The other main suggested mod for a 10/22 for Appleseed use is to get either some Tech Sights or a scope. While it is possible to shoot a Rifleman's score with the factory sights, it isn't easy. They are not ideal for precision marksmanship. Tech Sights give you battle rifle-style adjustable aperture sights (which nearly double the sight radius and simulate the sight picture of an M-1, M-14, or AR). They are sold here: [url]http://www.tech-sights.com/[/url]. If you go with a scope, a low power scope (4x or less) is best, or at least one that can be turned down to low power. I don't currently have any events on the schedule for Oklahoma, but I will hopefully have some open for registration soon. We will not be having another one until after the new year, but we ought to have shoots in January and February at Afton and El Reno. Grandfield is coming up again on April 16-17, 2011. If you don't want to wait, they're having a one-day shoot at Eureka, KS on Dec. 4. Let me know if you have any other questions or if I can help you out in any way. Feel free to PM or e-mail me. See you on the firing line! [/QUOTE]
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