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The Range
Handgun Discussion
S&W 442, 642 or ruger 327
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<blockquote data-quote="alank2" data-source="post: 1122561" data-attributes="member: 108"><p>Hi bobed,</p><p></p><p>You didn't mention the Ruger LCR, not sure if that is on your consider list or not, but it competes directly with the S&W 642/442. I've never shot one, but I wanted to mention it since it is an option. I hear they usually have a nice workable trigger out of the box.</p><p></p><p>I am not a fan of the internal lock on any S&W model. I am against it in principal because internal locks are an "antigun" invention. But even moreso with the S&W implementation because it is badly designed and prone to fail. Sure, some people have had it for a long time and never had an issue with it, but there are plenty of documented cases where it did fail. When I first took my original 442 with the lock apart, I was truly shocked at its poor design. First, it is NOT a lock in the sense that a key is required to operate it. There is no mechanism that holds it in the locked or unlocked position for a proper key. You can grab it with small pliers and turn it to lock or unlock. It is kept in position by spring tension. Sometimes recoil can overcome this tension and partially lock it. Also, it works like this - when "locked" it FORCES the gun locked. When "unlocked" it only removes that force. At that point a very tiny and flimsy spring pushes the part that locks it out of the way. Any failure of that spring = locked up gun. Needless to say I consider the lock completely unacceptable on a self defense weapon. For a range gun I wouldn't care... If I had a S&W with the lock and I needed it for self defense, I would just remove the lock. Not too hard to do with instructions over at the S&W forum.</p><p></p><p>I have a no lock 442 which is nice and smooth now, but J-frames are usually quite trigger heavy from the factory. I took mine apart and smoothed it and put in a lighter rebound spring so the trigger would be workable. I say workable, because many J-frame triggers are what I consider so heavy they make any sort of accurate shooting difficult.</p><p></p><p>It may sound like I am talking you out of a S&W, but that really isn't the case. They are just more work IMHO to get "ideal", but I think they are nicer once you've gone through the work. First, I'd try to find a no lock version so you don't have to remove the lock. I think S&W is still making some runs of no-lock 442's. Second, plan on spending the money for a good gunsmith to smooth the trigger pull to something reasonable. IMPORTANT - make sure they are capable of doing this WITHOUT lightening the hammer spring. You need all the primer detonation power you can get.</p><p></p><p>If I couldn't get a no-lock model, or didn't know how to smooth out the trigger, the Ruger LCR would be very tempting...</p><p></p><p>Good luck,</p><p></p><p>Alan</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="alank2, post: 1122561, member: 108"] Hi bobed, You didn't mention the Ruger LCR, not sure if that is on your consider list or not, but it competes directly with the S&W 642/442. I've never shot one, but I wanted to mention it since it is an option. I hear they usually have a nice workable trigger out of the box. I am not a fan of the internal lock on any S&W model. I am against it in principal because internal locks are an "antigun" invention. But even moreso with the S&W implementation because it is badly designed and prone to fail. Sure, some people have had it for a long time and never had an issue with it, but there are plenty of documented cases where it did fail. When I first took my original 442 with the lock apart, I was truly shocked at its poor design. First, it is NOT a lock in the sense that a key is required to operate it. There is no mechanism that holds it in the locked or unlocked position for a proper key. You can grab it with small pliers and turn it to lock or unlock. It is kept in position by spring tension. Sometimes recoil can overcome this tension and partially lock it. Also, it works like this - when "locked" it FORCES the gun locked. When "unlocked" it only removes that force. At that point a very tiny and flimsy spring pushes the part that locks it out of the way. Any failure of that spring = locked up gun. Needless to say I consider the lock completely unacceptable on a self defense weapon. For a range gun I wouldn't care... If I had a S&W with the lock and I needed it for self defense, I would just remove the lock. Not too hard to do with instructions over at the S&W forum. I have a no lock 442 which is nice and smooth now, but J-frames are usually quite trigger heavy from the factory. I took mine apart and smoothed it and put in a lighter rebound spring so the trigger would be workable. I say workable, because many J-frame triggers are what I consider so heavy they make any sort of accurate shooting difficult. It may sound like I am talking you out of a S&W, but that really isn't the case. They are just more work IMHO to get "ideal", but I think they are nicer once you've gone through the work. First, I'd try to find a no lock version so you don't have to remove the lock. I think S&W is still making some runs of no-lock 442's. Second, plan on spending the money for a good gunsmith to smooth the trigger pull to something reasonable. IMPORTANT - make sure they are capable of doing this WITHOUT lightening the hammer spring. You need all the primer detonation power you can get. If I couldn't get a no-lock model, or didn't know how to smooth out the trigger, the Ruger LCR would be very tempting... Good luck, Alan [/QUOTE]
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