Scope mounting pointers

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Ok, riddle me this batman....

If I have 2 piece "traditional" rings (not a Pepr style mount)....they say to align them using the pointed alignment bars, then remove those, then lap the rings to each other.

Why can you not just use the lapping bar to align them to each other? It seems to me a somewhat loosely fit ring on a lapping bar will self align on the rifle...then add lapping compound and away you go. What am I missing here? It seems to me the pointers add an extra step and additional difficulty thats not necessary.
 

magna19

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Ok, riddle me this batman....

If I have 2 piece "traditional" rings (not a Pepr style mount)....they say to align them using the pointed alignment bars, then remove those, then lap the rings to each other.

Why can you not just use the lapping bar to align them to each other? It seems to me a somewhat loosely fit ring on a lapping bar will self align on the rifle...then add lapping compound and away you go. What am I missing here? It seems to me the pointers add an extra step and additional difficulty thats not necessary.
I believe the step your talking about has a better alignment to create the least amount of lapping for a good fit.
 

magna19

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Better fit to ring diameter maybe. My 1" pointed aluminum bars are long enough to set in both rings . Some rings have windage on the rear and its I think better to use the pointed ones if any possible base or ring alignment problems.
 

Glock 40

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First if your using high end rings and steel bases, they shouldn't need or be lapped imo.

That said by having the two independent pieces it is giving you more freedom in alignment of the rings independently. It lets you move each piece to get your vertical and horizontals alignments as perfect as possible while having the best contact on the gun and scope. It allows tightening the bases and the ability to cheat one way or the other (splitting the difference). Also you want to reduce the amount of material you will need to remove during lapping. If you use the lapping bar and set it on the bases it wont be as accurate as using the alignment bars independently. Using the bar alone isn't different than using the scope for alignment other than its solid.

If you want to test it try mounting the rings with the lapping bar. Then remove it and the see what the alignment bars look like.
 

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So for S&Gs I put the pointers in and they were basically perfect. Lapped in the rings to each other and got the scope mounted up in the No. 1. Hope its ready to roll tomorrow or Sunday...I'm ready to zero this baby in!

ITS FINALLY NO. 1 TIME!!!!!
 

magna19

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First if your using high end rings and steel bases, they shouldn't need or be lapped imo.

That said by having the two independent pieces it is giving you more freedom in alignment of the rings independently. It lets you move each piece to get your vertical and horizontals alignments as perfect as possible while having the best contact on the gun and scope. It allows tightening the bases and the ability to cheat one way or the other (splitting the difference). Also you want to reduce the amount of material you will need to remove during lapping. If you use the lapping bar and set it on the bases it wont be as accurate as using the alignment bars independently. Using the bar alone isn't different than using the scope for alignment other than its solid.

If you want to test it try mounting the rings with the lapping bar. Then remove it and the see what the alignment bars look like.
Thats pretty much how I understand it. Lapping is usually used for scopes to be mounted for heavy recoil, correcting alignment issues, and to help scopes be more centered as the reticle being centered in available left/right up/down . Lapping is also used to ensure scopes dont get marked up from slightly off drilled base holes. Had a brand new Rem 700 in 7 SAUM as a gift for someone right before a hunt and had to lap heavily to not jack a scope up.
 

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I'll try to get a daylight pic tomorrow if its dry.
Ruger No1 Stainless/Laminate in .450 Bushmaster with a Burris Tac30 scope
Per Strelok a good zero is 177 yards...which equates to basically 1.5" high at 50 and gives a MPBR of 200 yards with a 6" kill zone...so thats the goal to start with.
 

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