Just keep repeating this to yourself "IF SOME SOMMITCH CAN TIGHTEN IT, I CAN LOOSEN IT"
I've got a daggum 1" drive impact I call "Bertha", she weighs a bunch, is old and did I mention heavy. IF I can get Bertha near it, Bertha will break it loose or break it altogether. Bertha loves changing brush hog blades. I know that doesn't help you but I wanted to brag on Bertha.
Brake fluid. Drip a little brake fluid on it and let it work down in the threads.
Hehe... this reminds me of a guy I worked with at a trucking company (we called him "Speedy"). He was mostly just a mechanic's helper and oil change guy, and not very mechanically inclined.
Once he got on his back, he lost all sense of thread direction (I had a brother-inlaw the same way). When someone would say "That's the wrong way Speedy," he'd always reply, "I was just breaking the rust."
If the heat won't hurt anything near it, heat the exposed part of the bolt red hot with a small torch. Wait for it to turn back blue and then wrench it out. Penefree is the best P oil I've found. I've been dealing with stuck bolts like this for 35 years on almost a daily basis. I would try the oil first and give it time to work.
I will second the brake fluid. I tried PB and Kroil and others and the brake fluid won every time.
One other mystery penetrant for rusty stuff is "Rust Buster" most supply houses will have it.
PB blaster dries up after a short time and no longer is in the picture. It never worked well for me.
Brake fluid for me worked better than Heat and candle wax also.
One other mystery penetrant for rusty stuff is "Rust Buster" most supply houses will have it.
PB blaster dries up after a short time and no longer is in the picture. It never worked well for me.
Brake fluid for me worked better than Heat and candle wax also.
Heat is the best thing to use every time unless the heat ill damage rubber bushings or seals
I always used heat as a last resort. It does work, but it also softens the metal (reduces the temper). And you can actually use a cutting torch and cut nuts off bolts without damaging the threads (if you use yer torch a lot). 
Of course it's a moot point if you're replacing the fastener anyway.
Of course it's a moot point if you're replacing the fastener anyway.
I spent 1/2 the day trying to remove catalytic converter bolts from a 20 year old vehicle with 280,000 miles on it.
Heat did not work and it was oxygen acetylene torch ..I tried all the tricks and the last one I tried was Brake fluid. It worked.
You must use a six point socket also if it is a six point nut..keeps from stripping it.
Another thing most people overlook is the taper on the socket or wrench.
That taper is there to help you get on the bolt head quick.. but it also reduces surface area and that can lead to a stripped out bolt head.
For stubborn stuff I use sockets and wrenches that have NO taper.
If yours have a lot of taper you can grind the taper off.
Nothing worse than a stripped bolt head in a hard to get to spot.
Why some of these manufactures put so much taper on their tools is beyond me.
Heat did not work and it was oxygen acetylene torch ..I tried all the tricks and the last one I tried was Brake fluid. It worked.
You must use a six point socket also if it is a six point nut..keeps from stripping it.
Another thing most people overlook is the taper on the socket or wrench.
That taper is there to help you get on the bolt head quick.. but it also reduces surface area and that can lead to a stripped out bolt head.
For stubborn stuff I use sockets and wrenches that have NO taper.
If yours have a lot of taper you can grind the taper off.
Nothing worse than a stripped bolt head in a hard to get to spot.
Why some of these manufactures put so much taper on their tools is beyond me.
