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The Range
Gunsmithing & Repairs
Sidelock Muzzleloader misfire fix.
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<blockquote data-quote="swampratt" data-source="post: 3658420" data-attributes="member: 15054"><p>I like my Sidelocks sometimes.</p><p>But when the hammer falls and you get only the sound of the hammer falling it is a bit upsetting.</p><p></p><p>You pull the hammer back and let it go again and sometimes it goes off.</p><p>I had 4 clicks one time while hunting and the 5th time it shot.</p><p>Got my deer but that is not the way to play in the woods.</p><p></p><p>I spent 2 hours today dialing in the hammer strike to the nipple on 2 of my sidelocks.</p><p></p><p>Success at last I did not have any misfires or clicks at the range today.</p><p>Over 40 primers shot and not one had to take another hammer hit.</p><p>I like it.</p><p></p><p></p><p>First up was to remove the nipple and make sure the caps slid all the way on.</p><p>I did not want them to slide on with force. I want them to slide on and slide off easily without tools.</p><p></p><p>I chucked the nipples up in the drill press and sanded the nipple a tick smaller and finished the sand job with 800 grit.</p><p>Nipples are sized.</p><p></p><p>Now I took a flat fine file and filed the top of the nipple so it was shiny and flat just a couple strokes.</p><p></p><p>Next I installed the nipple and snugged it and painted the fresh filed surface with a dry erase marker.</p><p>I let the hammer strike it and some of the nipple top was shiny where the hammer hammered it off and another part of the nipple top was still black.</p><p>I filed the nipple some more removing the shiny spot more than the painted spot.</p><p></p><p>Basically making making it line up perfectly with the hammer.</p><p></p><p>More dry erase marker and more hammering until I got it perfect.</p><p></p><p>Now onto the main spring. Some springs over time get soft and you need a harder primer hit to set them off reliably.</p><p>I cut 2 strips of galvanized steel sheet wi9th tin snips. Strips were 3/4-1" long and a little narrower than the main spring.</p><p></p><p>That main spring will have a small slot down the middle of it where you can wedge these thin steel strips into the slot to allow more spring tension.</p><p></p><p>Trigger pull will be a bit stiffer but that is a small price to pay for reliable ignition if your issue is light primer strikes.</p><p></p><p>Both of the guns I tweaked this morning were fails last week with one not even igniting a primer after a dozen attempts and one was hit it 2-3 times and it will go off.</p><p>CVA Bobcats ...Both of them..One I paid $25 for just recently <img src="/images/smilies/smile.png" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>Now loading technique to eliminate hang fires if some of you do not know.</p><p>I use loose powder Pyrodex RS.</p><p>After I drop the powder down the barrel I tap the butt of the gun on the ground 8-12 times to settle the powder and then i hold the muzzleloader at a slight tilt with barrel still point up about 1:00 and I tap on the barrel with my palm just above the nipple area.</p><p></p><p>You want that powder to migrate through that turn and get under the nipple.</p><p>Seat the projectile.</p><p></p><p>Now remove the nipple and see if powder is under it.</p><p>If it is then install nipple and cap it and fire it.</p><p></p><p>If no powder is under the nipple add some.</p><p>This will eliminate hang fires.</p><p>Of course nipple hole needs to be clear of obstructions.</p><p></p><p>Yea sidelocks are a pain and inlines are the way to go.</p><p>But after the range trip today guess what I need to work on to make it fire.</p><p>Remington 700ML that I bought 4 years ago at a pawn shop.. light primer strikes.</p><p></p><p>I did get it to shoot 6 times and when it does shoot it is accurate.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="swampratt, post: 3658420, member: 15054"] I like my Sidelocks sometimes. But when the hammer falls and you get only the sound of the hammer falling it is a bit upsetting. You pull the hammer back and let it go again and sometimes it goes off. I had 4 clicks one time while hunting and the 5th time it shot. Got my deer but that is not the way to play in the woods. I spent 2 hours today dialing in the hammer strike to the nipple on 2 of my sidelocks. Success at last I did not have any misfires or clicks at the range today. Over 40 primers shot and not one had to take another hammer hit. I like it. First up was to remove the nipple and make sure the caps slid all the way on. I did not want them to slide on with force. I want them to slide on and slide off easily without tools. I chucked the nipples up in the drill press and sanded the nipple a tick smaller and finished the sand job with 800 grit. Nipples are sized. Now I took a flat fine file and filed the top of the nipple so it was shiny and flat just a couple strokes. Next I installed the nipple and snugged it and painted the fresh filed surface with a dry erase marker. I let the hammer strike it and some of the nipple top was shiny where the hammer hammered it off and another part of the nipple top was still black. I filed the nipple some more removing the shiny spot more than the painted spot. Basically making making it line up perfectly with the hammer. More dry erase marker and more hammering until I got it perfect. Now onto the main spring. Some springs over time get soft and you need a harder primer hit to set them off reliably. I cut 2 strips of galvanized steel sheet wi9th tin snips. Strips were 3/4-1" long and a little narrower than the main spring. That main spring will have a small slot down the middle of it where you can wedge these thin steel strips into the slot to allow more spring tension. Trigger pull will be a bit stiffer but that is a small price to pay for reliable ignition if your issue is light primer strikes. Both of the guns I tweaked this morning were fails last week with one not even igniting a primer after a dozen attempts and one was hit it 2-3 times and it will go off. CVA Bobcats ...Both of them..One I paid $25 for just recently :) Now loading technique to eliminate hang fires if some of you do not know. I use loose powder Pyrodex RS. After I drop the powder down the barrel I tap the butt of the gun on the ground 8-12 times to settle the powder and then i hold the muzzleloader at a slight tilt with barrel still point up about 1:00 and I tap on the barrel with my palm just above the nipple area. You want that powder to migrate through that turn and get under the nipple. Seat the projectile. Now remove the nipple and see if powder is under it. If it is then install nipple and cap it and fire it. If no powder is under the nipple add some. This will eliminate hang fires. Of course nipple hole needs to be clear of obstructions. Yea sidelocks are a pain and inlines are the way to go. But after the range trip today guess what I need to work on to make it fire. Remington 700ML that I bought 4 years ago at a pawn shop.. light primer strikes. I did get it to shoot 6 times and when it does shoot it is accurate. [/QUOTE]
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