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The Range
Handgun Discussion
Smith and Wesson revolver questions.
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<blockquote data-quote="ldp4570" data-source="post: 2761724" data-attributes="member: 5168"><p>Well some folks will will not agree with me, but when it comes to J-frames they should be steel, blued or stainless. I've seen way to many of the airweights, unobtainium, or whtat ever with cracked frames right under the forcing cone. Once you crack one S&W will not fix or replace, so you have an expensive paper weight. Unless you like lots of flash, recoil, and ear problems stick with .38 special loads, there are even good non-plus "P" loads. All steel isn't that heavy, and all the J-frames conceal very nice in appropriate holster's OWB, and IWB. I consider the J-frame as more of a back-up gun than a primary, and I've carried them both ways, and never felt out gunned. I do prefer to carry a K-frame revolver with a 3" to 4" barrel and round butt grip compared to a J-frame.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ldp4570, post: 2761724, member: 5168"] Well some folks will will not agree with me, but when it comes to J-frames they should be steel, blued or stainless. I've seen way to many of the airweights, unobtainium, or whtat ever with cracked frames right under the forcing cone. Once you crack one S&W will not fix or replace, so you have an expensive paper weight. Unless you like lots of flash, recoil, and ear problems stick with .38 special loads, there are even good non-plus "P" loads. All steel isn't that heavy, and all the J-frames conceal very nice in appropriate holster's OWB, and IWB. I consider the J-frame as more of a back-up gun than a primary, and I've carried them both ways, and never felt out gunned. I do prefer to carry a K-frame revolver with a 3" to 4" barrel and round butt grip compared to a J-frame. [/QUOTE]
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