Stock refinishing thread: BLO vs PTO vs Tung Oil Finish

[gfercaks33]

Do you apply it with your fingers or do you use a rag, sorry if that has been answered?

 

[Catt57]

Do you apply it with your fingers or do you use a rag, sorry if that has been answered?

I use old t-shirts that I cut up. I run them through the dryer after cutting to remove the lint and strings. The Tung Oil FInish (TOF) takes only about 12 hours to dry between coats but about a week to fully cure and harden. (Don't bump it into something before then. Ask me how I know....) For a gloss finish I let the final coat cure for 2-3 days and then buff it with a T-shirt rag. For matte I lightly hit it with 0000 steel wool after about 24 hours let it sit another 24 hours and then use a T-shirt to buff it to the sheen I want.

It also depends on how many layers you put on. More layers, more shine. And I steel wool each layer after 12-24 hours before applying the next. It keeps the surface smooth, provides better adhesion, and allows you to "remove" bubbles and runs if you have any in all but the final coat.

The first coat is usually applied thicker than the rest as it will be soaked up by the wood. And it usually takes 2-4 coats before it looks like you are making progress.

With patience and practice you can get about any look you want. I would suggest practicing on a scrap board if you are trying to get a specific look to see how the different methods and number of coats actually work.

I almost forgot, it is a wiping varnish and you apply it as such. Don't try to "paint" it on, just wipe on a thin coat and let it dry.

And DO NOT leave the rags soaked in TOF laying around wadded up. Spontaneous combustion is not something you want to deal with. I spread mine open and put them in an old metal 5 gal bucket until they dry. Same risk as BLO.

 

[milsurp2.0]

Lucas you have inspired me! I am heading to Lowe's to pick up red mahogany stain and wally world for tru oil. Gonna fix up this ol' dry faded mauser stock. Dry as it is I'm surprised it hasn't turned to dust like an old celluloid fishing lure.

 

[Catt57]

FYI - Tru-Oil is NOT pure Tung Oil or BLO. It is a type of Linseed Oil wiping varnish...

https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/getattachment/Resources/Safety-Data-Sheets/23123,-23035,-23132-Tru-Oil-Saftey-Data-Sheet.pdf.aspx


Just in case you didn't already know.

 

[coolhandluke]

Lucas you have inspired me! I am heading to Lowe's to pick up red mahogany stain and wally world for tru oil. Gonna fix up this ol' dry faded mauser stock. Dry as it is I'm surprised it hasn't turned to dust like an old celluloid fishing lure.

Please hand checker the stock and carve your initials and the last four of your SSN into the receiver while you're at it.


Seriously, I think you missed any and all of the points that I've made. I only condoned refinishing an original antique or milsurp stock if was in need of major repair. Somehow I think your rifle doesn't fall under that criteria.

I posted examples of three original milsurp stocks that I had personally refinished (not counting the new and commercial replacements). All three stocks were spares and not original to any respective rifles in my collection. Two of those three needed serious repairs that required a full blown strip and refinish...and those two were refinished in a way that resembled a correct original finish for those stocks. On the third stock (the PU), nearly all of the shellac was missing so I removed the remainder, stained, and oiled the stock in a way that resembled an original wartime oil finish. I hardly think that makes me an advocate for a Tru-Oil and Minwax treatment on a Kar 98. This thread was started for the purpose of refinishing a 10/22 stock...

 

[Catt57]

perhaps it was /sarcasm?

 

[coolhandluke]

perhaps it was /sarcasm?

Yes...the thinly veiled type. Clint thinks he is going to paint me as Bubba based on this thread.

 

[coolhandluke]

If a mod wants to move this thread to the how-to or gun care and maintenance section, that may be a much better place for it.

 

[milsurp2.0]

Just messing with you. I refinish parted out mauser stocks. The russian shellac comes off easily with acetone. The finish is almost original looking with just a small bit of BLO rubbed in. Didn't mean to imply anything negative.

 

[coolhandluke]

Just messing with you. I refinish parted out mauser stocks. The russian shellac comes off easily with acetone. The finish is almost original looking with just a small bit of BLO rubbed in. Didn't mean to imply anything negative.

I know that you were just pressing my buttons buddy...no worries. I was just hoping to curb any Gunboards-type Bubba flaming that might make this thread start heading south. It honestly wasn't my intent for this thread to become about refinishing milsurp stocks, but that is no one's fault but mine since I'm the idiot that should have started it in another section.