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The Range
Military Surplus
Stock refinishing thread: BLO vs PTO vs Tung Oil Finish
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<blockquote data-quote="Catt57" data-source="post: 2840845" data-attributes="member: 34578"><p>I use old t-shirts that I cut up. I run them through the dryer after cutting to remove the lint and strings. The Tung Oil FInish (TOF) takes only about 12 hours to dry between coats but about a week to fully cure and harden. (Don't bump it into something before then. Ask me how I know....) For a gloss finish I let the final coat cure for 2-3 days and then buff it with a T-shirt rag. For matte I lightly hit it with 0000 steel wool after about 24 hours let it sit another 24 hours and then use a T-shirt to buff it to the sheen I want. </p><p></p><p>It also depends on how many layers you put on. More layers, more shine. And I steel wool each layer after 12-24 hours before applying the next. It keeps the surface smooth, provides better adhesion, and allows you to "remove" bubbles and runs if you have any in all but the final coat.</p><p></p><p>The first coat is usually applied thicker than the rest as it will be soaked up by the wood. And it usually takes 2-4 coats before it looks like you are making progress.</p><p></p><p>With patience and practice you can get about any look you want. I would suggest practicing on a scrap board if you are trying to get a specific look to see how the different methods and number of coats actually work.</p><p></p><p>I almost forgot, it is a wiping varnish and you apply it as such. Don't try to "paint" it on, just wipe on a thin coat and let it dry.</p><p></p><p>And DO NOT leave the rags soaked in TOF laying around wadded up. Spontaneous combustion is not something you want to deal with. I spread mine open and put them in an old metal 5 gal bucket until they dry. Same risk as BLO.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Catt57, post: 2840845, member: 34578"] I use old t-shirts that I cut up. I run them through the dryer after cutting to remove the lint and strings. The Tung Oil FInish (TOF) takes only about 12 hours to dry between coats but about a week to fully cure and harden. (Don't bump it into something before then. Ask me how I know....) For a gloss finish I let the final coat cure for 2-3 days and then buff it with a T-shirt rag. For matte I lightly hit it with 0000 steel wool after about 24 hours let it sit another 24 hours and then use a T-shirt to buff it to the sheen I want. It also depends on how many layers you put on. More layers, more shine. And I steel wool each layer after 12-24 hours before applying the next. It keeps the surface smooth, provides better adhesion, and allows you to "remove" bubbles and runs if you have any in all but the final coat. The first coat is usually applied thicker than the rest as it will be soaked up by the wood. And it usually takes 2-4 coats before it looks like you are making progress. With patience and practice you can get about any look you want. I would suggest practicing on a scrap board if you are trying to get a specific look to see how the different methods and number of coats actually work. I almost forgot, it is a wiping varnish and you apply it as such. Don't try to "paint" it on, just wipe on a thin coat and let it dry. And DO NOT leave the rags soaked in TOF laying around wadded up. Spontaneous combustion is not something you want to deal with. I spread mine open and put them in an old metal 5 gal bucket until they dry. Same risk as BLO. [/QUOTE]
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Stock refinishing thread: BLO vs PTO vs Tung Oil Finish
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