Traditional Archery

[Lakenut]

I’m thinking about hanging up the compound bow and picking up a stick bow this year. I have been reading a lot. I went to archery traditions in Yukon and shot several bows.

The consensus seems to be 1. Start with low poundage and build good form/fundamentals. 2. Shoot A LOT 3.Once good shooting form has become second nature increase draw weight.

Anyone else have experience with traditional that can give advice?

With compounds im a big believer in buy once, cry once. With traditional it appears to be pull the bandage off a little bit at a time….. slowly.

Seriously looking at one of the Galaxy recurve bows-either the sage or ember. I could shoot the 45lb bows but the 40lb was a lot easier and I can definitely see that it would be easier to learn fundamentals with less draw weight. I also shot 35lbs and it almost felt too light…. Like a toy. This would give me the ability to buy new limbs to hunt with. Right now I have no idea what I would want in a more expensive bow. The Galaxy bows would be a great way to figure things out this season and go from there in the future.

Currently I’m shooting a Mathews at 65lbs. Would the 40lb draw weight be too much to start at?

 

[montesa]

I don’t know a lot about archery but I have had recurves from 30-50lbs. Your draw length matters too. If you’re drawing a 65 compound I don’t think the 40lb will be a problem. Also, the quality of the bow affects arrow speed beyond just the draw weight.

 

[Okie4570]

I've shot traditional since I was a boy, mostly longbows which I prefer but some recurve as well. THE best advise I can give anyone starting is 40lb draw weight, no matter what you buy. If it's not enjoyable to shoot, wears on your shoulders, elbows, fingers, etc, you're not going to shoot as often as needed. If you don't shoot it often you won't become proficient with it. The more you shoot, the better you'll get. 40lbs will kill any animal in OK. If you want to be a Howard Hill and do the 115lb draw weight great, but get proficient with the 40lb first lol.

-I've shot bare fingers always, most like a 3 finger glove
-Keep shooting sessions short at first
-keep target distances close at first, 8y, 10y max

Second best advice I can give, when drawing, keep a consistent anchor point, and when you reach that point that's when you release your arrow. Don't draw, hold, think about your target........this is an instinctive and muscle memory game. When I draw, as soon as the knuckle on my thumb touches the corner of my mouth, I release the arrow. Your target is not the whole, target, it's the tiniest spot you can find a place that you want to hit on the target, stare at it, get to your anchor point and release. This has worked great on any longbow, recurve or bows that I've made. Check out some Byron Ferguson videos too, as far as stance goes. Have fun!!

 

[Oklahomabassin]

I was called for my tracking service for 3 deer that were non fatal traditional archery shots in 2021.

Only take shots at calm deer that are close.

 

[Lakenut]

Okie my current thought is a Galaxy Sage recurve with 40lb limbs to learn on with the intent of going to 45lb to hunt with when ready. Or should I consider 35lbs to start?

When trying out bows…. Block at 10 yards I got some fist sized groups with the 40lbs. The 45lb groups were much larger. I’m sure it was form. Only shot 6-10 arrows with the 35lb…. It felt too light and I don’t recall the group size.

From there I am am a huge believer in arrow tuning. I spent countless hours getting my compound set up tuned as good as I could. It appears that the same is true with traditional archery…. Maximize arrow performance.

 

[Okie4570]

Okie my current thought is a Galaxy Sage recurve with 40lb limbs to learn on with the intent of going to 45lb to hunt with when ready. Or should I consider 35lbs to start?

When trying out bows…. Block at 10 yards I got some fist sized groups with the 40lbs. The 45lb groups were much larger. I’m sure it was form. Only shot 6-10 arrows with the 35lb…. It felt too light and I don’t recall the group size.

From there I am am a huge believer in arrow tuning. I spent countless hours getting my compound set up tuned as good as I could. It appears that the same is true with traditional archery…. Maximize arrow performance.

I would just get the 40 and get proficient. If you're consistently in the kill zone I'd stick with it and hunt with it.

Don't drive yourself too crazy with arrow tuning with traditional equipment. Your fingers will torque the string differently a little each time, and nothing is really as "clean and pure" when it comes to releasing, the rest and even the wooden arrows will vary. Don't over think it too much. Remember Native Americans survived by this means for centuries with virtually zero technology, and lots of practice

 

[hunter966]

I’ve been where you’re at and wished I would’ve asked before I bought.

Listen to Okie4570, get the 40 and get good with it before moving up. I currently shoot a 50-55 pound recurve and it’s all I want, but practice, practice, practice.

 

[Eagle Eye]

As stated above.
I tend to bring my Arrow kinda high. My anchor spot is touching my cheek bone. I place my target in a spot in between two knuckles on my bow hand. Using my knuckles gives me a consistent place to put the target. Hope that makes sense and is useful. As was said, aim small miss small.

 

[gunnut918]

Have been shooting traditional since 1988, solely since mid nineties. Buy bow that is legal weight to hunt deer at your draw length. Arrows need be tuned to your bow, different from compound but still needs to be done. Then may change from field points to broad heads. Where in central Oklahoma are you? Don’t know how to pm or would send my number. Best analogy I can give is like throwing a ball. Learning that didn’t think distance, just where ball needed to go. Same principle.