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Vintage S&W revolver thread
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<blockquote data-quote="zipty6" data-source="post: 3047765" data-attributes="member: 19401"><p>It's slow rust blue. Here's the info I typed up for another forum:</p><p></p><p>This is the fourth or fifth one that I've done. I'm far from an expert on the process, but I'm learning more as I go along. For what it's worth, here's my two cents:</p><p></p><p>I use Laurel Mountain Barrel Brown and Degreaser and follow <a href="http://www.laurelmountainforge.com/barrel_brown_inst.htm" target="_blank">the instructions on their site</a>. Make sure you do the Blue step (scalding after each rust cycle and before carding.) You can order it from Midway or Brownells. I haven't tried other solutions. That's the first one I tried and it works well for me. A 2-1/2 oz bottle is sufficient for two K frames in my experience.</p><p></p><p>I sand with 320, then 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Use a small block when sanding the flat surfaces. (I use 1/2 inch wide on each side and 2 1/2 inches long.) Others use quarter-round. I use my fingers for backing when sanding the curved areas. I used 3-in-one oil generously when sanding.</p><p></p><p>There is no need to go beyond 400 grit. Slow rust blue is more of a matte finish regardless of how fine you sand the surface.</p><p></p><p>After done sanding, strip the blue. This can be done by soaking for a few hours in a 50/50 mix of white vinegar & water. I use naval jelly because it only takes about 10 minutes. It's nasty stuff and does etch the metal a bit. This etching requires another quick pass with the 400 grit.</p><p></p><p>You can do the rust by hanging the parts over a bathtub with some warm water in it. I eventually found an old veggie steamer at a thrift store. (Kind of like <a href="https://www.bestbuy.com/site/chef-buddy-food-steamer-includes-timer-and-two-containers-black/5945899.p?skuId=5945899" target="_blank">this one</a>.) I built a 3.5'x2.5'x3' wood box and put the bottom portion of the veggie steamer in it. This cuts each rusting from hours to about 20-40 minutes.</p><p></p><p>I used warm water and pieces of old blue jeans to do the carding the first time I did this. It works, but is slow, messy, and leaves a duller finish. For my second revolver, I used a carding brush. A good carding brush gives a lot better results. I now use <a href="https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/wire-brushing-carding-tools/0025-stainless-steel-brushing-wheels-prod6762.aspx" target="_blank">a carding wheel</a> chucked into my drill press. This is much easier to use and provides superior results.</p><p></p><p>I prefer to do 5 to 7 cycles of the rust/card process. It looks decent after about 3.</p><p></p><p>After you are done with the process, let all of the refinished parts soak in a water displacing oil. I use Boiled Linseed Oil. If you use BLO make sure you wipe it clean before the oil dries.</p><p></p><p>BIG TIP:</p><p>The instructions say to do the last boil in water and baking soda, then card it one last time. On my most recent refinish, I did the last scalding in distilled water, carded, then boiled in water & baking soda. I then cleaned the revolver with and didn't card it again. If you card the gun after boiling in baking soda and water MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET <em>ALL</em> OF THE BAKING SODA OFF BEFORE YOUR FINAL CARDING. I missed some around the barrel pin the right side when doing my first one. <a href="http://zipty61.com/Rossi/d003.png" target="_blank">You can see</a> where this wiped out the finish during carding.</p><p></p><p>Don't use your wife's nice stove pot for the scalding. Find an old one at a garage sale or thrift store.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>My first refinish was my grandmother's old Rossi 68. (Smith & Wesson Model 36 clone.) Here's some pics from the process:</p><p><a href="http://zipty61.com/Rossi/rossi68.htm" target="_blank">Rossi 68 Slow Rust Blue</a></p><p></p><p>IANAL, or a gunsmith, so use your own best judgement.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Oh yeah - before pictures:</p><p><img src="https://www.okshooters.com/data/MetaMirrorCache/zipty61.com_36_36b4.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /> </p><p></p><p><img src="https://www.okshooters.com/data/MetaMirrorCache/zipty61.com_36_36b5.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="zipty6, post: 3047765, member: 19401"] It's slow rust blue. Here's the info I typed up for another forum: This is the fourth or fifth one that I've done. I'm far from an expert on the process, but I'm learning more as I go along. For what it's worth, here's my two cents: I use Laurel Mountain Barrel Brown and Degreaser and follow [URL='http://www.laurelmountainforge.com/barrel_brown_inst.htm']the instructions on their site[/URL]. Make sure you do the Blue step (scalding after each rust cycle and before carding.) You can order it from Midway or Brownells. I haven't tried other solutions. That's the first one I tried and it works well for me. A 2-1/2 oz bottle is sufficient for two K frames in my experience. I sand with 320, then 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Use a small block when sanding the flat surfaces. (I use 1/2 inch wide on each side and 2 1/2 inches long.) Others use quarter-round. I use my fingers for backing when sanding the curved areas. I used 3-in-one oil generously when sanding. There is no need to go beyond 400 grit. Slow rust blue is more of a matte finish regardless of how fine you sand the surface. After done sanding, strip the blue. This can be done by soaking for a few hours in a 50/50 mix of white vinegar & water. I use naval jelly because it only takes about 10 minutes. It's nasty stuff and does etch the metal a bit. This etching requires another quick pass with the 400 grit. You can do the rust by hanging the parts over a bathtub with some warm water in it. I eventually found an old veggie steamer at a thrift store. (Kind of like [URL='https://www.bestbuy.com/site/chef-buddy-food-steamer-includes-timer-and-two-containers-black/5945899.p?skuId=5945899']this one[/URL].) I built a 3.5'x2.5'x3' wood box and put the bottom portion of the veggie steamer in it. This cuts each rusting from hours to about 20-40 minutes. I used warm water and pieces of old blue jeans to do the carding the first time I did this. It works, but is slow, messy, and leaves a duller finish. For my second revolver, I used a carding brush. A good carding brush gives a lot better results. I now use [URL='https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/wire-brushing-carding-tools/0025-stainless-steel-brushing-wheels-prod6762.aspx']a carding wheel[/URL] chucked into my drill press. This is much easier to use and provides superior results. I prefer to do 5 to 7 cycles of the rust/card process. It looks decent after about 3. After you are done with the process, let all of the refinished parts soak in a water displacing oil. I use Boiled Linseed Oil. If you use BLO make sure you wipe it clean before the oil dries. BIG TIP: The instructions say to do the last boil in water and baking soda, then card it one last time. On my most recent refinish, I did the last scalding in distilled water, carded, then boiled in water & baking soda. I then cleaned the revolver with and didn't card it again. If you card the gun after boiling in baking soda and water MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET [I]ALL[/I] OF THE BAKING SODA OFF BEFORE YOUR FINAL CARDING. I missed some around the barrel pin the right side when doing my first one. [URL='http://zipty61.com/Rossi/d003.png']You can see[/URL] where this wiped out the finish during carding. Don't use your wife's nice stove pot for the scalding. Find an old one at a garage sale or thrift store. My first refinish was my grandmother's old Rossi 68. (Smith & Wesson Model 36 clone.) Here's some pics from the process: [URL='http://zipty61.com/Rossi/rossi68.htm']Rossi 68 Slow Rust Blue[/URL] IANAL, or a gunsmith, so use your own best judgement. Oh yeah - before pictures: [IMG]https://www.okshooters.com/data/MetaMirrorCache/zipty61.com_36_36b4.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]https://www.okshooters.com/data/MetaMirrorCache/zipty61.com_36_36b5.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE]
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