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What Spray Paint Brand is the Toughest?
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<blockquote data-quote="swampratt" data-source="post: 4218215" data-attributes="member: 15054"><p>I have been spray painting cars for over 40 years and you need a rough surface to allow the paint to stick well.</p><p>220 grit is the finest and it better not be 220 with a DA sander as that is too fine.</p><p>Hand sand only and you know as you sand the paper wears out.. you can feel it does not bite well but still looks good.</p><p>TOO bad toss that piece and get a fresh one.</p><p></p><p>I will agree with [USER=24429]@O4L[/USER] Rustoleum is good stuff.</p><p>But if your prep is poor nothing will stay on.</p><p></p><p>Sand then mineral spirit or Lacquer thinner or Rubbing alcohol rub down then paint.</p><p></p><p>If you can't get into a place to sand there is a product called Liquid No Sand.</p><p>But that only works well when used over old paint that is stuck chuck.</p><p>Not a substitute on bare steel.</p><p></p><p>I used walmart brand Black gloss on an engine and heads back in the 1990's and it stayed on for decades.</p><p>Excellent prep on those cast iron parts was the key.</p><p></p><p>No high heat paint needed as most paints are good for temps that an engine will never see.</p><p>If you see 300° F on the outside of your engine is is surely a goner.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="swampratt, post: 4218215, member: 15054"] I have been spray painting cars for over 40 years and you need a rough surface to allow the paint to stick well. 220 grit is the finest and it better not be 220 with a DA sander as that is too fine. Hand sand only and you know as you sand the paper wears out.. you can feel it does not bite well but still looks good. TOO bad toss that piece and get a fresh one. I will agree with [USER=24429]@O4L[/USER] Rustoleum is good stuff. But if your prep is poor nothing will stay on. Sand then mineral spirit or Lacquer thinner or Rubbing alcohol rub down then paint. If you can't get into a place to sand there is a product called Liquid No Sand. But that only works well when used over old paint that is stuck chuck. Not a substitute on bare steel. I used walmart brand Black gloss on an engine and heads back in the 1990's and it stayed on for decades. Excellent prep on those cast iron parts was the key. No high heat paint needed as most paints are good for temps that an engine will never see. If you see 300° F on the outside of your engine is is surely a goner. [/QUOTE]
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