I enjoyed doing a few, years ago. Using the 4 different Krylon camo colors. Finding twigs, different leaves and such and just experimenting! Plastic onion sack made a cool one!
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never used it for a whole gun, but i've used high temp engine block paint in a can for touch ups plenty of time. find a ding that someone on here just used a black sharpie on? (you have NO idea how often this has happened, come on guys...)
spray some engine paint in a tray, cue tip it onto scratch, hit it with the heat gun. easy.
i would imagine a full gun, if prepared correctly, would look even and a nice matte. i def wouldn't worry about it getting hot, that stuff is tough. in my experience it holds up very well to dirt and won't break down with gun oils or solvents.
you can find it at lowes or auto parts stores.
the BIGGEST thing with spraying is your technique. always start and finish your spray OFF your piece, so like start to the left and spray all the way to the right, past your piece, then stop. NEVER do quick short bursts. If you need to fill in specific areas that you miss, a lot of people make the mistake of bringing the can CLOSER to get like a smaller spray i guess? but this of course ruins the whole piece, for fill ins you need to hold FARTHER away and let the finest parts of the spray eventually fill in with a gradient in that area so you don't get a hard edge or even worse a buildup that leads to puddling and/or dripping.
like most people think it looks bad because THEY make it look bad.
spray some engine paint in a tray, cue tip it onto scratch, hit it with the heat gun. easy.
i would imagine a full gun, if prepared correctly, would look even and a nice matte. i def wouldn't worry about it getting hot, that stuff is tough. in my experience it holds up very well to dirt and won't break down with gun oils or solvents.
you can find it at lowes or auto parts stores.
the BIGGEST thing with spraying is your technique. always start and finish your spray OFF your piece, so like start to the left and spray all the way to the right, past your piece, then stop. NEVER do quick short bursts. If you need to fill in specific areas that you miss, a lot of people make the mistake of bringing the can CLOSER to get like a smaller spray i guess? but this of course ruins the whole piece, for fill ins you need to hold FARTHER away and let the finest parts of the spray eventually fill in with a gradient in that area so you don't get a hard edge or even worse a buildup that leads to puddling and/or dripping.
like most people think it looks bad because THEY make it look bad.
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I understand if you don’t like camo, but I’d take it to someone and have them match the cerekote the handguard to match.
If you are dead set against camo, I’d cerakote it black, or do another color on the entire gun.
Either way, I’d definitely change something. It does not look good as it is.
If you are dead set against camo, I’d cerakote it black, or do another color on the entire gun.
Either way, I’d definitely change something. It does not look good as it is.
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Good candidate for the rattle can. I agree with @joegrizzy on the engine enamel if you just want it black. I engine enameled a 10/22 with good results
It looks like the hide of a Texas longhorn steer.
Cerakote removal is difficult at best. It seems the best way to remove is some kind of blasting, but there are a few stating it can be removed with acetone based stripper and elbow grease.
Probably the easiest thing to do, is cerakote it a single color or have someone remove it and respray. I've never had the need to but then I haven't had a rifle that looks kinda like punkin pie.
https://adventurefootstep.com/how-to-remove-cerakote/
This dude uses table salt
Probably the easiest thing to do, is cerakote it a single color or have someone remove it and respray. I've never had the need to but then I haven't had a rifle that looks kinda like punkin pie.
https://adventurefootstep.com/how-to-remove-cerakote/
This dude uses table salt
@JEVapa is correct. I've got extensive experience with automotive and aerospace paint finishes. Cerakote is going to be a bear to get off.
Honestly I'd thoroughly degrease it, scuff it with scotchbrite and rattle can it. Brownells Alumahyde would be my preference but Krylon works too and is easy enough to touch up. And doing a sponge type camo hide a lot stuff, so there's that...
Honestly I'd thoroughly degrease it, scuff it with scotchbrite and rattle can it. Brownells Alumahyde would be my preference but Krylon works too and is easy enough to touch up. And doing a sponge type camo hide a lot stuff, so there's that...
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Either ask him who did the cerakote and have them match the handguard, or rattle can the whole gun. Anything else is too much effort for the return.
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