Excuse me sir, but I believe it is you who is showing ignorance about the design of the *modern* 1911. The grip safety effectively BLOCKS the firing pin on modern 1911 with the series 80 or shwartz type mechanism, because the firing pin is blocked until the trigger moves, and the trigger cannot move with the grip safety in place. The gun CANNOT fire with the firing pin blocked, so there's NO NEED whatsoever for "block[ing] the sear from releasing the hammer", as you say, even though the manual does in fact do that. Doesn't matter if the hammer falls because the firing pin is blocked by the grip safety mechanism on modern 1911s. On a modern 1911, the manual safety is JUST AS redundant as putting a manual safety on a Glock. Sure, it could be wanted or come in handy by some people in some circumstances, but not needed to make it drop safe (as I said before), or *generally* as safe as 99.94% of the pistol-using world wants or needs.
Para, Colt, Sig, Auto Ordnance, and Taurus all use the series 80 style firing pin block.
Kimber and S&W are slightly different, in that they have a specific firing pin block from the grip safety depressing, so the firing pin block in these is directly tied to the grip safety. But even on the others, the series 80 mechanism keeps the firing pin from going forward until the trigger is depressed, and the trigger cannot be depressed with the grip safety disengaged.
Now arguably, having a manual safety is safe-"ER" on an old, old 1911 without any modern mechanism like that... that is, *IF* you're gonna possibly drop your gun while it's in the holster on your body. As I said before, put the manual on while holstering and unholstering, and you're completely good to go, even if you drop it, even on a series 70 / old old 1911.
I have given no misinformation whatsoever, I do not believe.
Now that'd be a good idea (thank you) if I *needed* or wanted to train on disengaging a manual safety!
No excuse needed for anything. Training IS needed. Training on making disengaging a manual safety while drawing is NOT needed on a modern 1911. You certainly CAN if you want - nothing wrong with carrying & training this way either! But there's no need to if you don't want to, since carrying in this condition is perfectly fine and dandy, and as safe as anything (again, with a modern 1911). Obviously, if you're *gonna* carry with the manual safety engaged, then you'd better train that way!
As I say, people get apoplectic on this due to inertia, particularly the older fellas, but no one can dispute the facts. Ask 1911 tuner from THR if you like; he'll tell you the same thing. I'm only a "semi-expert" - he's a true expert on 1911s. It was a real concern in the 70s and before. We're 25+ years later now....
Para, Colt, Sig, Auto Ordnance, and Taurus all use the series 80 style firing pin block.
Kimber and S&W are slightly different, in that they have a specific firing pin block from the grip safety depressing, so the firing pin block in these is directly tied to the grip safety. But even on the others, the series 80 mechanism keeps the firing pin from going forward until the trigger is depressed, and the trigger cannot be depressed with the grip safety disengaged.
Now arguably, having a manual safety is safe-"ER" on an old, old 1911 without any modern mechanism like that... that is, *IF* you're gonna possibly drop your gun while it's in the holster on your body. As I said before, put the manual on while holstering and unholstering, and you're completely good to go, even if you drop it, even on a series 70 / old old 1911.
I have given no misinformation whatsoever, I do not believe.
Snap caps + dry fire at home, problem solved.
Now that'd be a good idea (thank you) if I *needed* or wanted to train on disengaging a manual safety!
Condition 0 isn't an excuse for less training.
No excuse needed for anything. Training IS needed. Training on making disengaging a manual safety while drawing is NOT needed on a modern 1911. You certainly CAN if you want - nothing wrong with carrying & training this way either! But there's no need to if you don't want to, since carrying in this condition is perfectly fine and dandy, and as safe as anything (again, with a modern 1911). Obviously, if you're *gonna* carry with the manual safety engaged, then you'd better train that way!
As I say, people get apoplectic on this due to inertia, particularly the older fellas, but no one can dispute the facts. Ask 1911 tuner from THR if you like; he'll tell you the same thing. I'm only a "semi-expert" - he's a true expert on 1911s. It was a real concern in the 70s and before. We're 25+ years later now....