A/c ?

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tran

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I am glad to hear that it is just a cap. However, the cap is for more than starting the fan motor. It also stays in the circut to better the power factor(use less amps to do the same work) this will cause the fan motor to heat up and quit on thermal overload, the compressor will continue the pressure will go high and eventually go into bypass. This puts a stess on the compressor and sometimes the bypass does not reseat and your compressor is bad. So call me and I will likely have the cap you need. Joe

It all depends on the design of the motor a cap/start motor only uses it to get the motor moving. A cap/start/cap/run motor uses it to lower the overall amp draw.
 

itzkwik

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Not one upping anyone,but from a year or so along time ago when I started service I had my ass chewed several times for just changing caps on condensor and blower motors and not changing both motor and cap because 90% of the time I was on a callback,reason being is that fan motor windings are cheap and once they get way overheated the copper windings get severely hot which changes the resistance in the windings,the motor will start and run like a champ for about 30 min,compressors are different being that they have oil and ref. to cool the windings so as a rule of thumb to save the customer money and the service man emabarassment,you should change both.
I would suggest you take the cover off of the fan to access the motor,if it even remotely has a burnt smell to it change it or you'll be without A/C again.
Just my 2 cents from experience since 1990-current. If the motor does not smell burned up buy one anyways,do not open the box and if it runs for a week take it back and get a refund.
 

pinkhamr

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Not one upping anyone,but from a year or so along time ago when I started service I had my ass chewed several times for just changing caps on condensor and blower motors and not changing both motor and cap because 90% of the time I was on a callback,reason being is that fan motor windings are cheap and once they get way overheated the copper windings get severely hot which changes the resistance in the windings,the motor will start and run like a champ for about 30 min,compressors are different being that they have oil and ref. to cool the windings so as a rule of thumb to save the customer money and the service man emabarassment,you should change both.
I would suggest you take the cover off of the fan to access the motor,if it even remotely has a burnt smell to it change it or you'll be without A/C again.
Just my 2 cents from experience since 1990-current. If the motor does not smell burned up buy one anyways,do not open the box and if it runs for a week take it back and get a refund.


I Hafta' agree with you ........ Changed my Start Capacitor out 2 months ago - Motor fried a month later ........
 

Rooster1971

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I agree on getting run cap pronto and not running it with bad cap but, if I changed the motor everytime I change a run cap I'd be retired by now. Thanks to the banning of PCBs in run caps We've probably replaced 30 last week. Easy money.

Most have been dual run caps swollen with both sides dead. No offense to above poster. I did have to change one motor today cause they left it turned on for two days with a bad cap and scorched the bearings. Surely the compressor overload and bypass took a beating also.

I worked for a company as svc manager for a while and was told to ride the guys to push parts needed or not. Hung out my shingle a long time ago
 

itzkwik

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That's the deal,how do you know how long its been powered up and hot,if the op got it going with a stick it wont stay running its just going to complete tne cycle of overheating the fan motor,I wont work for parts pushers(dishonest) just believe in fixing it right the first time,if he leaves it on overnight he'll need a new motor cuz its gunna stink in the morning,you know this.
 

itzkwik

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And you are right on the caps,I had six last week ,one that had the two condensor fan motors (Carrier w/10/10uf/370 dual fan cap)so hot it set off the duct detector from min OA being drawn in,and Trane has a huge quantity of 5-7.5uf made in mexico that are guarenteed to fail within warranty period
 

Rooster1971

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Sorry man, wasn't trying to take a jab at you. I tell everyone that calls to turn it off or it can do more damage Usually tell them we might have to put a motor on if it sustained damage. Guess I've been lucky because Ive replaced tons of run caps that were bad and got running and motor amps were good and not overheating. Evidently no significant resistance change and lasted for a long time.

Apologize again if you thought I was implying you were dishonest. If op turns it off instead of push starting it and burning it up, there's a good chance it will fix it.
 

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