Hand pump water well

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cowadle

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attwoods probably has leathers. if you have the cyl out of the well,you need two big pipe wrenchs and take off the top cap and the bottom cap. yes it probably had a dip tube on the bottom of the cyl to get deeper into the well in case the level dropped. i would measure static water level then arrange the cyl five feet or more below that then put a new dip tube on the bottom around ten feet or so. once you have the caps off you can push the plunger out off the barrel of the pump and you will see the leathers. the foot valve is in the bottom cap. inspect the pump barrel for wear and deep gouges. if worn out replace with new barrel or just get a new pump. chances are it is ok though,these are very forgiving. when you replace the leathers put the whole pump into a buchet of water and soak for a few hours before working the pump. you can test it now and see how it works. use plenty of pipe dope on the joints when you assemble. next get a windmill.
 

mythreal

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We bought a Simple Pump three years ago and we are very happy with it. It is the only pump we are using for the house (still working on finishing the inside). We just ordered the 24v motor which will run off of solar/batteries. It takes 17 pumps per gallon of water so we are ready for the electric motor. We have been filling the trailer's water tank by hand. The Simple Pump is not the cheapest around but it was one of the few hand pumps that would work with a well that is over 100' deep.
 

Dakota Safe

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I am building my own. I will share specs. They are extremely simple to build out of simple parts from Lowe's or Home Depot. The hardest part is getting the right stainless steel bearing for your check valve.
List of components include, 1 1/4" pvc/couplers, 3/4" pvc couplers, 3/4" bushing, ball bearing, foot valve, nylon rope, and a back flow valve and a hose connection. It is actually a lot easier than what this guy is showing you. I would be willing to help and discuss if you are interested.http://youtu.be/uoK3Wdxerls
 

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