Knife Sharpener

[montesa]

So you sharpen from the back side of the grinder? That makes sense.

I don’t think sharpening using the normal rotation in the location of the rest is any different than using a grinder for anything else. If the knife comes loose or the wheel comes apart, the knife will drive down towards the floor. I actually grind below the center point of the wheel so I can see the angle of the blade. At that point the wheel is moving away from me but not to the extent of how you are sharpening.

The problem is the wheel is rotating towards you, any slip up could be dangerous. With that setup it could be easy to rotate the edge and catch it. When the wheels rotate away from you, you hold the blade level a few degrees back from the top. Full visibility too.

 

[golddigger14s]

I don't have a wheel of any sort and want to be able to use it in the kitchen. This may be my next thought.

 

[Timmy59]

I don't have a wheel of any sort and want to be able to use it in the kitchen. This may be my next thought.

Imo as with any sharpening method, the result is all in the hands of the operator. Less the pull thru in the kitchen drawer . I've got a powered work sharp, a manual field and Arkansas stones. My most used is the manual work sharp. It's had plenty use and still sharpens well. My knife numbers and use will be seeing an increase as my inner butcher emerges. I've got a hone rod around somewhere I need to locate and start becoming more familiar with.

 

[montesa]

With sharpening, I’ve found that a lot of people buy the expensive gadgets because they don’t actually understand what’s happening. Unless you are completely resetting a thick edge, you don’t need to remove much metal. With those clamp style sharpeners, most people just go to town every time until it’s sharp. With a kitchen knife or knives that aren’t chipped, a simple high grit diamond stone and a strop is plenty. You only need to remove metal at the very edge lightly to raise a tiny burr. Then strop on leather or something. You can also use wet/dry sandpaper on a hard surface to achieve the same results. Even a ceramic rod will keep up most knives if they’re just used for cutting.

Edge geometry is key when it comes to efficient cutting so the more metal you remove the thicker the edge becomes. Assuming you’re not using something with a zero grind (no secondary bevel) like a chisel or Scandi grind

 

[okierider]

Wet stone and steel for the kitchen knives, wet stone and a strop for the carry knives. Wet stone and strop also go to the field real easy, all the fancy stuff seems like it would be a pain to set up on a tailgate. My son does have a work sharp that will take a really abused knife to a razor edge in short order, but once I get it there I go back to stone. The work sharp moves a lot of steel quick.