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The Range
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Long Range Rifle Help
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<blockquote data-quote="QTRMOA" data-source="post: 860288" data-attributes="member: 810"><p>Good Points ExSniper.</p><p></p><p>IMO (on a strick budget) I would get a factory Remington 700 used PSS or Varmint barrel chambered in .308. This should cost you no more than $100.</p><p>The 30-06 with the sported ADL barrel is going to kick like a mule after 4-5 shots and I have seen allot of tough guys develop a flinch. Once you develop a flinch it takes a bit of training to untrain.</p><p>A sporter barrel is going to heat up past the point of its true accuracy after the 6-7 shot, another reason the heavier barrels are a bit better.</p><p>As ExSniper posted " Long Range" is determined by two equations.</p><p>1) the limits of the rifle/caliber</p><p>2) the limits of the shooter/rifleman</p><p>That being said, It is important to go through the "appropriate gears" as your skill level allows as it will be impossible to start off in 5th gear w/o stalling the engine.</p><p>First thing is to build a rifle that will shoot 1" at 100y (1MOA). Find a scope that will reliably hold POI (Point of Impact). I rate Leupolds a 6 out of 10 as I have seen allot of them go down on the range. They are not bad but they are not good. </p><p>This is the area that you will want to spend a bit more money as the scope usually contributes to 90% of the failures on the field.</p><p>Have a Gunsmith tune your Factory trigger to 2.5lbs.</p><p>Learn NPA (Natural Point of Aim) VERY important!</p><p>Trigger Control=Dry Fire, Dry Fire and....Dry Fire (get snap caps)</p><p>The above is not usually learned in weeks but months and sometimes years.</p><p>The above is all about consistency.</p><p></p><p>Next.... I would try to focus on 200 yard line under ideal conditions (2-3mph wind) and test your rifles accuracy and the rifleman’s accuracy.</p><p>Your goal should be around a consistent 2 MOA.</p><p>This may take 2-3 sessions behind the rifle but 300,400,500m will come much easier if you start to see the small difference that wind, NPA, trigger control ect have at the closer ranges. Know that at 300m a full value (3o'clock) 10 mph wind will push a .308 bullet aprox 8" off the POA (point of aim) so if the wind drops on you from 10mph to say 4 mph your horizontal spread for the two shots will be 5" at 300m!</p><p></p><p>I’m sure I have missed a few things that ExSniper can elaborate on but this should get you a solid start.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="QTRMOA, post: 860288, member: 810"] Good Points ExSniper. IMO (on a strick budget) I would get a factory Remington 700 used PSS or Varmint barrel chambered in .308. This should cost you no more than $100. The 30-06 with the sported ADL barrel is going to kick like a mule after 4-5 shots and I have seen allot of tough guys develop a flinch. Once you develop a flinch it takes a bit of training to untrain. A sporter barrel is going to heat up past the point of its true accuracy after the 6-7 shot, another reason the heavier barrels are a bit better. As ExSniper posted " Long Range" is determined by two equations. 1) the limits of the rifle/caliber 2) the limits of the shooter/rifleman That being said, It is important to go through the "appropriate gears" as your skill level allows as it will be impossible to start off in 5th gear w/o stalling the engine. First thing is to build a rifle that will shoot 1" at 100y (1MOA). Find a scope that will reliably hold POI (Point of Impact). I rate Leupolds a 6 out of 10 as I have seen allot of them go down on the range. They are not bad but they are not good. This is the area that you will want to spend a bit more money as the scope usually contributes to 90% of the failures on the field. Have a Gunsmith tune your Factory trigger to 2.5lbs. Learn NPA (Natural Point of Aim) VERY important! Trigger Control=Dry Fire, Dry Fire and....Dry Fire (get snap caps) The above is not usually learned in weeks but months and sometimes years. The above is all about consistency. Next.... I would try to focus on 200 yard line under ideal conditions (2-3mph wind) and test your rifles accuracy and the rifleman’s accuracy. Your goal should be around a consistent 2 MOA. This may take 2-3 sessions behind the rifle but 300,400,500m will come much easier if you start to see the small difference that wind, NPA, trigger control ect have at the closer ranges. Know that at 300m a full value (3o'clock) 10 mph wind will push a .308 bullet aprox 8" off the POA (point of aim) so if the wind drops on you from 10mph to say 4 mph your horizontal spread for the two shots will be 5" at 300m! I’m sure I have missed a few things that ExSniper can elaborate on but this should get you a solid start. [/QUOTE]
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