Mil-Spec grease for your new build

[newxder50]

I am an average gun owner in my early fifties...a couple of months ago I gathered all the parts I needed to build my first complete AR rifle from scratch and when I realized I needed to use grease, and not just any grease, but a special kind of grease (Aeroshell 33*MS Mil-Spec grease) for the*barrel nut and the buffer tube assembly...I looked a lot of places and couldn't find a small amount of this grease to buy, sure there were 14 oz tubes available, but as a guy who builds maybe 3-5 rifles over a few years, why would anyone spend 30 bucks on a tube of this stuff only to have it expire before they use it? *
*
So, I solved the problem and made small containers myself and offered them for sale at Fatboy Tactical in OK because I like these guys, if you need a small amount of the right grease they have it for a few bucks. They are good guys, hit them up if you're doing a build. Thanks guys/gals.

God Bless from Maine

 

[Oklahomabassin]

Great idea! Hope it takes off for you!

 

[newxder50]

Thanks, I'm hoping it works out...not quitting my day job though.

 

[Fyrtwuck]

Might sound kind of silly, but why a special type of grease? I used plain automotive grease when I built mine. It's worked fine for years.

 

[amcardon]

Barrel nut torque specs are based on using mil-spec grease such as aeroshell 33ms or honda moly60. They do not contain graphite or other additives that would enhance galvanic corrosion (steel barrel nut, aluminum upper). Then again, lots of guys swear by it, lots of guys swear against it. Do whatever floats your boat, but in any case, use a quality moly grease.

 

[Shadowrider]

Barrel nut torque specs are based on using mil-spec grease such as aeroshell 33ms or honda moly60. They do not contain graphite or other additives that would enhance galvanic corrosion (steel barrel nut, aluminum upper). Then again, lots of guys swear by it, lots of guys swear against it. Do whatever floats your boat, but in any case, use a quality moly grease.

If you are concerned about galvanic corrosion you DO NOT want any grease containing electrically conductive compounds and moly certainly is. It's really a moot point anyway, the aluminum is anodized and renders it nonconductive. If the anodic coating is broken in the thread and you get some saltwater in there you may have a problem, but anodize is the number one first choice to stop it.