Saw on Reddit - r/1911. Pretty interesting.
Notes from an Army comp shooter for an accurate 1911 (early 1970’s)
- Thread starter PanhandleGlocker
- Start Date
Great post!
Those rules still apply. However, a lot of it can be accomplished now using a milling machine, especially the slide to frame fitup.
It takes about 100 hours for us to create a competition-grade 1911, including doing the finish.
One of the advantages of making our own is that we can customize them to be exactly what we want them to be.
And never, never use lapping compound in fitting a 1911. The abrasives become embedded in the metal, and accuracy is lost very quickly.
Those rules still apply. However, a lot of it can be accomplished now using a milling machine, especially the slide to frame fitup.
It takes about 100 hours for us to create a competition-grade 1911, including doing the finish.
One of the advantages of making our own is that we can customize them to be exactly what we want them to be.
And never, never use lapping compound in fitting a 1911. The abrasives become embedded in the metal, and accuracy is lost very quickly.
Your mileage may vary. We get very clean cuts with a mill--to within 0.0001". No residue, and nothing left over in the metal.
What lapping compound do you use?
Interesting
I really like these. I surely hope someone transcribes them for us. I found a few words I cannot decipher that are critical to the sentence.
Some of the notes aren't too clear, especially for us'n in the peanut gallery.
EX: "The rear groove will have to have material removed from sides of barrel."
The "grooves" are in the slide.
Some of the notes aren't too clear, especially for us'n in the peanut gallery.
EX: "The rear groove will have to have material removed from sides of barrel."
The "grooves" are in the slide.
I believe he's talking about the grooves that go across the barrel in the photo I attached. This is stolen from a seller of Wilson Combat barrels. I'd think a modern new barrel has this problem taken care of, but I think I've got an old GI barrel here somewhere that might need that treatment if I ever get to use it. I didn't find any words that I couldn't understand there, though I did find one that is missing off the bottom of the page. He's talking about checking for contact with Dykem after filing, and I believe it should read "back and forth." I also put the photos in an pdf document, also attached. This is going in the 1911 folder on my various gadgets. If you can specify which page, I'd be happy to look at it and see I if I can figure it out!
Attachments
No personal experience here, but the good word from a gentleman who restores antique machinery, and swears by TimeSaver Lapping compounds. Timesaver Lapping Compounds - Micro Surface Corporation
SDS for the hard metal lapping compound is here: https://ws2coating.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/SDS-GREEN-LABEL-TIMESAVER-ENGLISH-0815.pdf It breaks down and washes out, unlike silicon carbide, aluminum oxide, etc. Main ingredient is find silica, or quartz. What I do know from personal experience is that quartz is about the same hardness as hardened steel. And it fractures easily. IIRC, quartz is silicon dioxide, and garnet is (depending on type) silicon trioxide or tetraoxide with traces of other metals. Silicon dioxide is about a 7 on the Moh's scale, garnets range from about 6-7.5, and silicon carbide is about a 9, as is corundum, or aluminum oxide. The harder materials will embed in a softer material. That is, after all, how laps are made.
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