question for plumbers or contractors?

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briarcreekguy

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First off a little background, I rent my home from my Uncle who is a building contractor. The well at the house I'm renting has been sucking sand for a couple of years, and about a month ago, the pump burned out. After discussing the problem with my Uncle, we decided the best course of action was to get hooked up to rural water. So after purchasing a meter, it took them about 3 weeks to get out and do the road bore, and then time to get the trench ( about 450 feet) dug. I need to make the connection to the house, using 2 inch slip joint pipe. I have never used this kind of PVC pipe before so I need to know a few things.

1. What kind of lubricant is used on the joints of pipe?
2. How far into the bell should the next joint of pipe be inserted?
3. At the house, I need to turn a 90 degree turn, to get to the point where the line enters the house. Is it Ok to use 3/4 inch pipe for the last 30 foot or so (3/4 is the diameter of the line entering the home).
4. Should I locate the shut off at the 90, or up closer to the point where it enters the home?

I'm going to talk with my Uncle tomorrow about this, but I would like to be armed with a little bit of knowledge first. I'm tired of going to the parents home to take a shower, and hauling drinking water. I'm doing this to expedite the situation.
 

Parks 788

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Can't help with all of it but here is my $.02

I ran 1" schedule 80 PVC for most of the length from the street shutoff to my house. I did this because if I ever break the water line while planting trees or what not I can fix it easier than having to break out the torch, flux, etc. My big recommendation is to have at least two separate shutoffs between the street and your house. I say this because if you ever have a line break anywhere in the house or property you have back up shutoff. What I mean by this is that over time I guarantee you that valves will not always close completely. When you have a water line break our you need to do any repair and you shut off the one valve you have and it leaks it becomes a absolute ***** to solder a copper line with a dribble of water going through the copper fittings. Two valves to close will allow you to have extra security.

Also, I would place one valve right where it goes into the house or is quick and easy access to run out the door and turn it off. I prefer to use the 90* ball valves. I will give them a turn or three very several weeks to keep the "fresh".

For the slip joint. Shouldn't need any lube just some water to wet it. Just make sure they are loosened up all the way. Also, if your using 3/4" slip joint it is probably only 6" long so just put each end only 2" or so in each side and tighten. It sort of a compression fitting type deal.

If you decide to solder on a ball valve be sure to keep the valve open when soldering so it doesn't heat up too much and melt the seal around the ball.

My house has (going backwards), 3/4" from house to 3/4" ball valve soldered to it then a length of 3/4" copper pipe then a 3/4" to 1" female threaded copper fitting soldered into the copper pipe then a male schedule 80 fitting glued into the schedule 80 pipe that runs to the street about 70' away. Hope this makes sense and helps.
 

RaysZ71

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I do plumbing for million dollar homes in Edmond and have been doing it for a while. All we use is 3/4 Pex from the meter to the house. Unless you have lots of fixtures, 1" or 1.5" is overkill. 3/4 is sufficient. Run that from meter to inside your water heater area. Go up to a location where you can have access and put in a 3/4 inch ball valve, followed by a PRV then to the cold side on your heater, before you tie into your water heater you add another 3/4 ball valve.
 

weav199

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+1 on the Pex. I have rental properties and have started using Pex. It's easy to install and won't break if it's frozen. Saves me a lot of crawling under repairs!
 

RaysZ71

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I hear rats and mice like the taste of Pex.

Well NY rats chew thru metal too. Not sure if Okie Rats are that bad azz but anything is possible..lol. Since Ive been doing this, I have not had one service call related to pex failing or being chewed by rats or mice. Not saying it cant happen, I just never had that call.
 

briarcreekguy

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It is over 450 feet from the meter, to the house, that is why we are using 2 inch pipe, to avoid frictional loss of pressure over the distance.

The pipe has already been purchased and the installation was begun, but my uncle has got busy with other jobs, and I am wanting to finish the job up, so I can once again have water.

Thanks for all the information, and keep it coming. If I ever build my own home, I was thinking that PEX might be the way to go for internal plumbing.
 
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