FWIW I run 75w140 synthetic when towing.
FWIW I run 75w140 synthetic when towing.
The GM 8.5 10-bolt has 30-spline axles. The current GM 14-bolt also has 30-spline axles, they are the same diameter. Axle spline count is all based on the diameter of the shaft. The 8.5 10-bolt is capable of handling large towing loads. The 97 1500 has a tow rating of 6500 lbs, this is due to transmission, suspension, and braking limitations, all of which can be easily rectified. The SAME differential is still the standard unit used in the new 2015 1500s, which have a *gasp* 9400 lb tow rating. The issue you are likely referring to is the gov lock differential, which is a ticking time bomb for any rear end in which it is installed. GM started using the gov lock in 1973 and they still use it, in both the 10 and 14-bolt diffs. An open carrier is would be better for basic towing, or a proper limited slip. An E-locker would be even better. You won't twist those axles on asphalt or dirt with street tires. that same axle is used in 9-sec Grand Nationals that hang the front wheels for 100 feet on slicks in stock form. It is not the strongest rear, but it sure as hell isn't the weakest. The differential is not an issue here, it is the rest of the truck that needs to be tuned up for hauling an 8k load.
I believe the OP said he has a 3.73 gear, that will increase his towing capacity over the higher gears. My 4.8 had the towing package, which included 3.73s. You lose a couple thousand pounds of towing capacity with the 3.08 gears.
That auto transmission will be first to go, before that 10 bolt rear end.
^^^^
He'll lose a half dozen 4L60e's before that rear end goes out. And I wouldn't be worried about snapping axles from the additional tongue weight.
The transmission is definitely the weakest link. The OP says the truck has an auxiliary cooler, which will make a big difference in longevity, as long as he keeps his foot out of it. 97 was a few years before the 4L65E upgrade, which used 5-pinion front and rear planetaries, the 4L60E has 4-pinion planetaries. That extra pinion gear makes a big difference in towing capacity. 2001 saw the 4L65E.
That said, the 4L80E transmission was available in 1991, so it is possible he has a 4L80, which would up his capacity.
4L80E is shaped like a rectangle with two corners lopped off and 17 bolts.
700r4/4L60/4L60E is pretty much square with a couple irregularities and 16 bolts.
That said, the 4L80E transmission was available in 1991, so it is possible he has a 4L80, which would up his capacity.
4L80E is shaped like a rectangle with two corners lopped off and 17 bolts.
700r4/4L60/4L60E is pretty much square with a couple irregularities and 16 bolts.
To the OP, I would give your Suburban a thorough going over, change all the fluids, tune up, check the brakes, just a front to rear tune up. Get a good hitch leveler with sway control, a good elect brake controller inside, then hook it up and enjoy your retirement.
Don't know first hand, but I've heard that if the vehicle manufacturer recommends a weight distributing hitch and you don't have one in an accident, insurance might not pay off.
We got one of THESE to pull our 2-horse trailer with my 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 litre with tow package, makes a hell of a difference. Really cuts down on the bounce and sway.
Don't really remember if that's the vendor that we got it from.
We got one of THESE to pull our 2-horse trailer with my 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 litre with tow package, makes a hell of a difference. Really cuts down on the bounce and sway.
Don't really remember if that's the vendor that we got it from.
Ok...here's all the specs...trailer...3815# dry.....572# dry hitch weight....the motor was completely rebuilt from oil pan to valve covers about 3500 miles ago and the transmission about 500 miles before that. It is a 4L60e with a new torque converter....the RPO codes readout from GMC also shows it has the Z82 travelling package with factory trans cooler and engine oil cooler. My hitch is rated at 5000# tow and 500# hitch. I figure with quad and accessories will add 800-1000# to trailer weight. I plan on some new tires,shocks and brakes before trying anything. If I need to go up to a class IV hitch I can do that for 300 dollars. I do appreciate everyone's input on this.
With those specs, you should not have any issues. I would consider adding a few gauges, specifically a trans temp gauge, just to be safe. I would go for a Class IV hitch for peace of mind. You mind want for more power from the 350, but that is easy enough to rectify as well.
I didn't read every detail, but if you need a trailer built I can recommend Norshel, or Stone Trailer. Dave Stone has been there for years and does great work. I recently had a custom boat trailer built there, and am entirely satisfied with it. Cost was less than everyone else I checked. He's on NW 10th just east of Macarthur on the north side of the street. Phone is 405 946 9801. Congratulations on your upcoming retirement.
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Oklahoma City Trades added Price drop Heavy duty extruded metal Cabinet- Latest: Almost Jack Burton
