Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
Latest activity
Classifieds
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Log in
Register
What's New?
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More Options
Advertise with us
Contact Us
Close Menu
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Forums
The Range
Rifle & Shotgun Discussion
Ar trigger polishing.
Search titles only
By:
Reply to Thread
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="uncle money bags" data-source="post: 2843073" data-attributes="member: 8377"><p>The picture above is the top center section of a VW type 4 race engine. This is the piece that broke away when a piston rod decided to let go and try to achieve low Earth orbit right after turn 2 at Hallett race track. It was the first race engine I built myself, without a clear understanding; tempered by experience and wisdom, of how the the system worked as a whole. I built this engine, and raced it for a total of about 6 laps. I wanted to do it myself, for budget reasons and because of a desire to "do it myself". What I discovered was the meaning behind; " <em>The best way to make a small fortune in racing, is to start with a large fortune"</em>. </p><p>I have kept this part for 18 years, in a prominent place, to remind me of the dangers of not understanding what I am doing, as well as, seek the help of professionals when in doubt.</p><p></p><p>When I used to polish triggers for my AR FCGs I first made sure I understood the engineering involved. This includes the metallurgy, polishing, and how seemingly minute changes in one area can drastically change the system as a whole.</p><p>This is how I did the trigger sear surface mentioned by the OP. I am posting this as an example, not as a guide.</p><p></p><p>I started with a sheet of 1200 grit wet/dry paper, using a glass block as a base. </p><p>Using a small amount of thin oil, I coated the surface of the paper.</p><p>Under magnification, I ensured the sear surface was flush against the paper and with light pressure traced a single figure 8. </p><p>Wipe the oil off the sear and inspect under the same magnification. I am trying to produce an even surface without broaching the hardened surface. </p><p>In order to not break the hardened surface I will <strong>not </strong>repeat the figure 8 more than 3 times, and honestly that is twice more than I prefer. </p><p>Satisfied that I have a surface I can polish without damage, I move on to a small, hard felt wheel and a small amount of very fine polish. Something more abrasive than jewelers rouge, but less so than tripoli.</p><p>Using a high end dremel type hand piece and slow speed i polished the sear surface. The direction of the wheel in relation to the sear is important. You do not want the polishing to round over the leading edge of the sear engagement, so the wheel should "pull" over not push into that edge. </p><p>A few seconds is all it takes. Any more than that can damage the surface hardening. It may not look like a mirror, and in fact that isnt the goal. The goal is a more consistent, less gritty pull.</p><p></p><p>Having said all of that, I no longer do this type of modification. Not because this is a bad way to fix a crappy feeling GI trigger, but because there are alternatives that are significantly better than you can achieve doing this. </p><p> Geissele gets my money. There is no finer combat trigger made, and every firearm I have that can take one, gets one.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="uncle money bags, post: 2843073, member: 8377"] The picture above is the top center section of a VW type 4 race engine. This is the piece that broke away when a piston rod decided to let go and try to achieve low Earth orbit right after turn 2 at Hallett race track. It was the first race engine I built myself, without a clear understanding; tempered by experience and wisdom, of how the the system worked as a whole. I built this engine, and raced it for a total of about 6 laps. I wanted to do it myself, for budget reasons and because of a desire to "do it myself". What I discovered was the meaning behind; " [I]The best way to make a small fortune in racing, is to start with a large fortune"[/I]. I have kept this part for 18 years, in a prominent place, to remind me of the dangers of not understanding what I am doing, as well as, seek the help of professionals when in doubt. When I used to polish triggers for my AR FCGs I first made sure I understood the engineering involved. This includes the metallurgy, polishing, and how seemingly minute changes in one area can drastically change the system as a whole. This is how I did the trigger sear surface mentioned by the OP. I am posting this as an example, not as a guide. I started with a sheet of 1200 grit wet/dry paper, using a glass block as a base. Using a small amount of thin oil, I coated the surface of the paper. Under magnification, I ensured the sear surface was flush against the paper and with light pressure traced a single figure 8. Wipe the oil off the sear and inspect under the same magnification. I am trying to produce an even surface without broaching the hardened surface. In order to not break the hardened surface I will [B]not [/B]repeat the figure 8 more than 3 times, and honestly that is twice more than I prefer. Satisfied that I have a surface I can polish without damage, I move on to a small, hard felt wheel and a small amount of very fine polish. Something more abrasive than jewelers rouge, but less so than tripoli. Using a high end dremel type hand piece and slow speed i polished the sear surface. The direction of the wheel in relation to the sear is important. You do not want the polishing to round over the leading edge of the sear engagement, so the wheel should "pull" over not push into that edge. A few seconds is all it takes. Any more than that can damage the surface hardening. It may not look like a mirror, and in fact that isnt the goal. The goal is a more consistent, less gritty pull. Having said all of that, I no longer do this type of modification. Not because this is a bad way to fix a crappy feeling GI trigger, but because there are alternatives that are significantly better than you can achieve doing this. Geissele gets my money. There is no finer combat trigger made, and every firearm I have that can take one, gets one. [/QUOTE]
Insert Quotes…
Verification
Post Reply
Forums
The Range
Rifle & Shotgun Discussion
Ar trigger polishing.
Search titles only
By:
Top
Bottom