Crimping .38 Special loads

[Repubiman]

I'm a new re-loader and just finished my first batch of .38 special. At least I think it's finished.

According to the Speer #14 manual it says to crimp .38 Special loads.

My Loads are 148 HBWC seated flush with 2.3 gr. Clays powder. I just flush seated the bullets but didn't crimp them as the RCBS die instructions that came with the dies say you can either crimp or not crimp. I'm using once shot .38 spec brass of various makers that I cleaned ,deprimed,resized,flared etc.I will be shooting them in a Ruger GP100 4" barrel revolver. Which info should I go by? It would be no problem to throw back on the loader and crimp them if that is what is needed.

I also want to comment on how much I think I'm going to love reloading my own rounds.
Actually seems like I could really become a hardcore reloader (read here: lead ho) as a hobby. It's awesome. I had been thinking about reloading for years but since the Dec. incident and the subsequent drying up of everything shootable, I made the plunge. Especially after a buddy of mine invited me over to watch and help him and his Dad reload some of their ammo.Except for trying to scrounge up all the different components it seems to be going well for me. I found some used brass,small and large pistol primers and some .38 wadcutters. Also found some powders and a box of Speer 150gr. .308bullets and a box of .243 bullets. So as you can see I'm slowly gathering up what I need here and there but looks like it's going to be harder and more expensive than I initially thought.

I bought a RCBS Rock Chucker Surpreme and Dies for all the ammo I shoot. Pistol is 9mm, .38 spec./.357, .45 ACP and .45LC. So far rifle rounds I shoot are .308 and .243 Winchester.

Right or wrong I thought the .38 spec. round would be a good one to get my feet wet with as I
will be shooting it as I mentioned in the Ruger GP 100. The 9mm,.45ACP will be loaded for auto
feeders so I hope to start them after I can find all the components and read a lot more info.

So please bear with all the rookie post I'll probably be making until I get things figured out.
I was hoping to maybe find the time to take a reloading class a H&H but with my work schedule,
being able to attend and be there everyday and on time might be a problem. Hopefully things at work will settle down a bit and I can enroll in a class.

 

[Rod Snell]

With wadcutters, all you need to do is remove the flare. If you want to crimp a few thousandths more, that's OK, but not needed.

With bullets like SWC, crimp in the groove.

 

[okietom]

If you have a separate crimp die you could go ahead and set the crimp and have the die adjusted for when you do want to crimp. You do not want the bullets to pull out of the cases when firing. That is one of the reasons to crimp revolver ammo, another reason is that some powder charges ignite and burn better with a good crimp.

 

[Repubiman]

Ok guys thanks for the responses. The die set I'm using has a built in crimper if you want to crimp them. It's not separate.

 

[turkeyrun]

I use a very slight crimp on load with 5.0 gr Unique. May have to try that 2.3 gr Clays, gt twice as many loads from a pound of powder sounds like just my ticket.

 

[jrguns]

Something you should think about is that when you reload you should fire a few rounds after yiu first load a few. That way you will know how the work before you load too many. This may also help in determaining wheather to crimp or not. I would crimp some just to hold the bullet in and to close up the flare.

 

[kd5rjz]

148gr HBWCs are the only 38spl load I don't crimp. I do run them through a Lee factory crimp die to remove the flare, but they seat far enough in the case to burn the 2.3gr of Trail Boss I usually load them with.

 

[Repubiman]

jrguns that's a good idea.

kd5rjz- thanks think I will try them without much of any crimp too.