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The Range
Ammo & Reloading
G23 Reloading - That horse isnt dead yet...
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<blockquote data-quote="Hawgman" data-source="post: 776449" data-attributes="member: 7676"><p>This is what I've learned by doing it. First of all, glocks tend to have a SLIGHTLY larger diameter chamber and yes, a little less support at the 6 o'clock position. The less support at the 6 o'clock is where this term "unsupported case" comes from. I've compared a number of barrels removed from various semi-autos and inserting a cartrige in the chamber. To my eye, glocks do not have an egregious lack of support at the 6 o'clock compared to some other guns. I've seen a couple as unsuppoted or even less so. My kimber 1911 would definately fall into the "unsupported" catagory. This is just my conclusion: With the looser chamber tolerance AND the feed ramp angle being somewhat continued into the chamber area AND the .40s&w operating at a fairly high pressure, it's common to have a slight to moderate bulge in the web of the fired case running from the 4 o'clock to 7 o'clock position. This ramp/chamber configuration is one reason glocks have the "goes bang everytime" even under horrid conditions reputation; but it does stress brass.</p><p>Three ways to go:</p><p>1) Buy and after market barrel with a tighter chamber and slightly more abrupt feed ramp angle (I personnaly prefer Lone Wolf or KKM with KKM being a more refined product). If you fire brand new never before fired cartridges in a barrel like this...no bulge to deal with. And you can shoot lead.</p><p></p><p>If you've already fired the brass in glock barrel:</p><p>2) Get an undersized sizing die. They're sold by a company called CGW or something like that. They size .001 smaller that spec. but you may wind up with a thin rim of brass build up at the very heal of the case. I ground down the shell holder SLIGHTLY so the case was inserted just far enough into the sizing die to press out that bulge.</p><p>3) I believe it's redding that sells a sizing die/shell holder combo that FULLY sizes by shoving the brass clear through the die and out the top of the press. I've not tried it but had I seen it before the undersized die, I would have tried it first. Still may get one one day.</p><p></p><p>All this is of course try at your own best judgement. It's just what I've worked out through research/trial and error. Also, I reload semi-autos on the mild to moderate side. Always have. Mostly to get the most life out of the brass and gun. Revolvers tend to handle the heavy loads better. This was sort of long but I wanted to help by passing on what I've had to piece together about reloading the .40 in a glock.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Hawgman, post: 776449, member: 7676"] This is what I've learned by doing it. First of all, glocks tend to have a SLIGHTLY larger diameter chamber and yes, a little less support at the 6 o'clock position. The less support at the 6 o'clock is where this term "unsupported case" comes from. I've compared a number of barrels removed from various semi-autos and inserting a cartrige in the chamber. To my eye, glocks do not have an egregious lack of support at the 6 o'clock compared to some other guns. I've seen a couple as unsuppoted or even less so. My kimber 1911 would definately fall into the "unsupported" catagory. This is just my conclusion: With the looser chamber tolerance AND the feed ramp angle being somewhat continued into the chamber area AND the .40s&w operating at a fairly high pressure, it's common to have a slight to moderate bulge in the web of the fired case running from the 4 o'clock to 7 o'clock position. This ramp/chamber configuration is one reason glocks have the "goes bang everytime" even under horrid conditions reputation; but it does stress brass. Three ways to go: 1) Buy and after market barrel with a tighter chamber and slightly more abrupt feed ramp angle (I personnaly prefer Lone Wolf or KKM with KKM being a more refined product). If you fire brand new never before fired cartridges in a barrel like this...no bulge to deal with. And you can shoot lead. If you've already fired the brass in glock barrel: 2) Get an undersized sizing die. They're sold by a company called CGW or something like that. They size .001 smaller that spec. but you may wind up with a thin rim of brass build up at the very heal of the case. I ground down the shell holder SLIGHTLY so the case was inserted just far enough into the sizing die to press out that bulge. 3) I believe it's redding that sells a sizing die/shell holder combo that FULLY sizes by shoving the brass clear through the die and out the top of the press. I've not tried it but had I seen it before the undersized die, I would have tried it first. Still may get one one day. All this is of course try at your own best judgement. It's just what I've worked out through research/trial and error. Also, I reload semi-autos on the mild to moderate side. Always have. Mostly to get the most life out of the brass and gun. Revolvers tend to handle the heavy loads better. This was sort of long but I wanted to help by passing on what I've had to piece together about reloading the .40 in a glock. [/QUOTE]
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