LR 308 rifle smoothing out recoil

[Seadog]

Looking to see what my fellow OS8 brethren have to say on big bore LR 308 AR10 pattern rifles.

I’ve an Aero precision M5 308 AR that I’ve built. Function tested it this last weekend and it worked just fine.

I’m looking on taming the recoil a little bit to try and keep on target for follow up shots. I’m not looking to use an adjustable gas block as my front sight is part of the gas block I went with. A folding Yankee hill front sight gas block combo.

Also I’m not wanting to go down the route of using a compensator. Don’t care for them. The blast of the concussion wave coming back always makes me blink. Counterproductive for staying on target. And some I’ve played with have excessive fireballs. I have a surefire four prong flash hider on it. I prefer eliminating flash over brakes.

The recoil isn't bugging me. I don’t think that it is excess. Just a little on the jumpy side. I want to keep better on target and the way the rifle is now it isn’t.

I was thinking of using a heavier buffer and maybe a heavier spring. Wondering if anyone has gone down this road and had any good experience. Or did it start short stroking and all types of issues come about from a heavier recoil system.

My rifle has an A2 fixed stock with a 5.4 AR10 buffer and a correct AR10 style rifle spring in it already.

I see that heavybuffersprings.com has a 10 ounce buffer and spring combo for sale. It has peaked my interest but it’s a bit pricey. Also KAK Industries has a 9.3 ounce buffer. It doesn’t come with a spring but is better priced. I also see that a red or Orange buffer spring is recommended going this route. They are extra power or strong.

Anyone go down this path with their LR 308 AR10 type rifle? Pros, cons, ideas, successes or failures? Looking to pick you guys brains for any helpful ideas that work.

 

[CSeverns]

You might try an adjustable gas block. I think that they’re a must on any .308 AR build due to the finicky nature of the platform. But adjustable gas blocks are there mostly to aid in reliability based on whatever ammo you’re using at the time. As much as you don’t want to hear it, the most dramatic effect on the recoil will be based on your muzzle device. You need to be running a good muzzle brake to get the most noticeable recoil reduction. The brakes that do best in reducing .308 recoil are gonna be the Lantac Dragon, Precision Armament M4-72, Ultradyne Apollo, VG6 Lambda, and I’ve also heard pretty good things about the tanker style brakes (like what you’d see on a .50BMG). If you’re worried about gas-slapping the people shooting next to you at the range, Indian Creek Designs makes a universal blast forwarding device that threads over any muzzle device up to 1 inch in diameter and will work with just about all of them. So it’s like a Surefire Warden that you can use the brake of your choice with.

 

[Seadog]

You might try an adjustable gas block. I think that they’re a must on any .308 AR build due to the finicky nature of the platform. But adjustable gas blocks are there mostly to aid in reliability based on whatever ammo you’re using at the time. As much as you don’t want to hear it, the most dramatic effect on the recoil will be based on your muzzle device. You need to be running a good muzzle brake to get the most noticeable recoil reduction. The brakes that do best in reducing .308 recoil are gonna be the Lantac Dragon, Precision Armament M4-72, Ultradyne Apollo, VG6 Lambda, and I’ve also heard pretty good things about the tanker style brakes (like what you’d see on a .50BMG). If you’re worried about gas-slapping the people shooting next to you at the range, Indian Creek Designs makes a universal blast forwarding device that threads over any muzzle device up to 1 inch in diameter and will work with just about all of them. So it’s like a Surefire Warden that you can use the brake of your choice with.

Thanks for that response. You are right. I don’t want to go the brake route. Used them before on a few other rifles and hate the back blast. If it’s going to make me blink that defeats my purpose of wanting to stay on target and see where I’m going. I can see it’s use on large bores like the 50BMG to tame it. A definite beneficial advantage there.

If I had a suppressor I’d think more about an adjustable gas block but I never have took the plunge. One of these days. Maybe if our state grows a pair like Texas. We had a bill earlier this year but it was shot down and killed if I recall right.

The ammo I’m using is a clone of m118 and doesn’t have a problem working the action. Seems to be some good stuff.

I’m wondering if anyone on here has any experience using the heavier buffers and springs. I would like to smooth out the cycle of the guns action in use so it doesn’t jump quiet as much.

I know brakes do work good and they can definitely help you stay on target. Just really really really trying to stay away from them. Maybe I need to go down that road to get were I’m wanting with this rifle. But I’m trying to avoid it.

 

[rc508pir]

Try a Battle Comp

 

[Jgibs0321]

Thanks for that response. You are right. I don’t want to go the brake route. Used them before on a few other rifles and hate the back blast. If it’s going to make me blink that defeats my purpose of wanting to stay on target and see where I’m going. I can see it’s use on large bores like the 50BMG to tame it. A definite beneficial advantage there.

If I had a suppressor I’d think more about an adjustable gas block but I never have took the plunge. One of these days. Maybe if our state grows a pair like Texas. We had a bill earlier this year but it was shot down and killed if I recall right.

The ammo I’m using is a clone of m118 and doesn’t have a problem working the action. Seems to be some good stuff.

I’m wondering if anyone on here has any experience using the heavier buffers and springs. I would like to smooth out the cycle of the guns action in use so it doesn’t jump quiet as much.

I know brakes do work good and they can definitely help you stay on target. Just really really really trying to stay away from them. Maybe I need to go down that road to get were I’m wanting with this rifle. But I’m trying to avoid it.

Im confused at loud things making anyone flinch. Hydraulic buffer, tubbs flat wire recoil spring, superlative gas block, use a brake for outright softest shooting and flattest muzzle rise for spotting your own shots. Or dont, and it will have more movement. At which, if you know how to shoot semi autos, then you just have to work a little more to stabilize the gun as it goes through its cycling process and it will still produce good groups.

Looking to see what my fellow OS8 brethren have to say on big bore LR 308 AR10 pattern rifles.

I’ve an Aero precision M5 308 AR that I’ve built. Function tested it this last weekend and it worked just fine.

I’m looking on taming the recoil a little bit to try and keep on target for follow up shots. I’m not looking to use an adjustable gas block as my front sight is part of the gas block I went with. A folding Yankee hill front sight gas block combo.

Also I’m not wanting to go down the route of using a compensator. Don’t care for them. The blast of the concussion wave coming back always makes me blink. Counterproductive for staying on target. And some I’ve played with have excessive fireballs. I have a surefire four prong flash hider on it. I prefer eliminating flash over brakes.

The recoil isn't bugging me. I don’t think that it is excess. Just a little on the jumpy side. I want to keep better on target and the way the rifle is now it isn’t.

I was thinking of using a heavier buffer and maybe a heavier spring. Wondering if anyone has gone down this road and had any good experience. Or did it start short stroking and all types of issues come about from a heavier recoil system.

My rifle has an A2 fixed stock with a 5.4 AR10 buffer and a correct AR10 style rifle spring in it already.

I see that heavybuffersprings.com has a 10 ounce buffer and spring combo for sale. It has peaked my interest but it’s a bit pricey. Also KAK Industries has a 9.3 ounce buffer. It doesn’t come with a spring but is better priced. I also see that a red or Orange buffer spring is recommended going this route. They are extra power or strong.

Anyone go down this path with their LR 308 AR10 type rifle? Pros, cons, ideas, successes or failures? Looking to pick you guys brains for any helpful ideas that work.

what kind of groups are you producing at 100 yards?

 

[JEVapa]

If you mess with the buffer, be prepared to mess with the gas system. A good muzzle device is the easiest and cheapest way along with the least heartache, to reducing recoil and flip. The blast is only bad if you're in the zone on the sides.

Even with a hydraulic or heavy buffer and the various colored springs and widgetry, get ready to spend more money on an adjustable GB and drilling out your gas port to accommodate it. An adjustable GB is useless if it only opens up to your existing gas port size and you're right back at square one.

I recommend to just live with it and get a pair of these, good affordable Noise Canceling earpro:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1021656667?pid=249277
or these:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1023774938?pid=105222
And a good pair of eyepro and a good muzzle device. It'll save you alot of time and pain.

 

[swampratt]

I hear what you are saying about staying on target after the shot and trying to eliminate the as you stated the jumpy side.

I had a brake on my .308 and on a 5.56 and it did eliminate a lot of the issue you want to rid yourself of.
But I did not like them either because I hunt and sometimes in Prone or in an old dusty tree sitting on a limb. Dirt/dust tossed in my face.

And the crown of the rifle would get all carboned up and my accuracy fell off so I would need to remove it and clean at less than 30 rounds.

Deal breaker.
Heavier rifle will help that jumpy issue or a reduced load.

I do not know what you use this rifle for but strictly for hunting and paper punching I just deal with it
and i use a scope that has generous eye relief and set it up so I can get on target quick.

You may be using iron sights I have no idea.
I have had scopes that were very finicky on eye position those all are in a drawer or trash can.

 

[kingfish]

You're fighting Newton's law of physics here. With not wanting to use a mitigating device like a comp. you really limits your options. Adding a heavier buffer and stronger spring will only change the shape of the recoil pulse. The heavier setup will cause the pulse to rise faster at the start of the recoil movement where the standard setup will build a little slower, but get higher towards the end. Your only option is to increase the mass of the rifle. If you have the standard A2 style stock, you could purchase a 3# lead insert that is designed to fit the shape of the storage space. I use one when bench shooting. It is really noticeable when you are carrying the rifle and it changes the balance point considerably.

Here is one other option you may want to have a look at. I have one in my rifle because I shoot almost exclusively with a suppressor. It allows you to adjust the gas at the bcg key. I am not totally endorsing this product just yet as I am having some inconsistency in the cycling. It may be that the gas key port being partially closed off causes it to foul quicker. It worked great at first, but over time the action began to slow down to the point of stovepiping cases. I need to spend more time with mine seeing if different ammo will shoot cleaner and not cause the problem. Like I said, you really have limited your options so this may be one of your few ways left to go. Here is a link to the product.
https://falkordefense.com/shop/ar-a...ressure-308-bolt-carrier-group-black-nitride/
I forgot to add that I use this bcg to reduce the overgasing due to the can. If you are using it to reduce the normal amount of gas entering the system you will likely have to go to a lighter buffer or spring to keep the rifle cycling properly. Even after doing all this, I can't tell you if this will actually cause a perceived reduction in recoil and muzzle rise. It's an option which is what you are looking for. It's your call if you want to venture down that road.

 

[Seadog]

Im confused at loud things making anyone flinch. Hydraulic buffer, tubbs flat wire recoil spring, superlative gas block, use a brake for outright softest shooting and flattest muzzle rise for spotting your own shots. Or dont, and it will have more movement. At which, if you know how to shoot semi autos, then you just have to work a little more to stabilize the gun as it goes through its cycling process and it will still produce good groups.

what kind of groups are you producing at 100 yards?

I’m also confused most of the time. 13 years on graveyards is probably part the reason. If closing my eyes is flinching then yes, I be a flinching mofo. Brakes make me blink my eyes. That concussive back blast and whatever else it’s sending my way I’m blinking like an owl. Several times now I have referred to the concussive back blast that breaks produce. It reminds me of an air compressor and if somebody was to blast you in the face with it, that’s how I compare it.

I don’t have a problem with noise as far as I know. Shooting doesn’t cause me to blink. Crap coming back into my face does.

This is a new rifle that I put together, I was function testing it to ensure that it was working properly and a rough zero about 1-1/2 low. I haven’t shot it much as this was it losing its cherry. I took it to H&H and had a wonderfully short 30 yards to play with. It clover leafed into a nice ragged hole. Like shooting fish in a barrel. Nothing to brag about at that range. Wasted 60 rounds playing with it. One of these days I’ll stretch it out and see what it can really do.

I’m gonna have to start keeping track. You are number two recommending a break.

 

[Seadog]

I hear what you are saying about staying on target after the shot and trying to eliminate the as you stated the jumpy side.

I had a brake on my .308 and on a 5.56 and it did eliminate a lot of the issue you want to rid yourself of.
But I did not like them either because I hunt and sometimes in Prone or in an old dusty tree sitting on a limb. Dirt/dust tossed in my face.

And the crown of the rifle would get all carboned up and my accuracy fell off so I would need to remove it and clean at less than 30 rounds.

Deal breaker.
Heavier rifle will help that jumpy issue or a reduced load.

I do not know what you use this rifle for but strictly for hunting and paper punching I just deal with it
and i use a scope that has generous eye relief and set it up so I can get on target quick.

You may be using iron sights I have no idea.
I have had scopes that were very finicky on eye position those all are in a drawer or trash can.

Thanks for your response Swampratt

You seem to understand where I’m coming from and have some experience with what I am talking about. Several decades ago I thought I would like breaks. Then I used them and discovered I don’t like the side effect of the blast blowing crap back into my face. Lesson learned.

I’m not a hunter. My father wasn’t and I never learned to. When I was young I liked fishing but I grew out of that. Wasn’t really any good at it.

My firearms are pretty much paper assassins. That’s all they have been used for. Shooting prone or off a bench is how I use my boom sticks for the most part. Unless I’m using a pistol. Then I’ll stand.

You brought up something interesting I wasn’t thinking of. I zeroed my rifle with the iron sites. Then I zeroed the scope. Generous eye relief of the scope. How generous are you talking? I have a primary arms 4-14 scope. Eye relief is somewhere in the 2 to 3 inch area. Is that one a type you have in your junk pile?

You’re a pretty knowledgeable fella Swampratt. I’ve enjoyed reading your posts in the past. Thanks for chiming in.