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<blockquote data-quote="swampratt" data-source="post: 2756387" data-attributes="member: 15054"><p>you can also have dies made or take cheap lee dies and hone the die body out some and I have honed one where the neck is no longer sized.</p><p>Basically made a body sizing die.. then run the case through the lee neck sizer.</p><p>Many ways to get to the point of minimal brass sizing which greatly reduces case stress.</p><p></p><p>But for accuracy you may find that the OAL of the round makes much more difference in accuracy than how you size the case.</p><p></p><p>When searching for accuracy take a note of how much pressure is needed to seat each bullet.</p><p>I found with R-P and Federal brass I was having some bullets seat easily and some seat really hard. This showed up on paper as fliers.. you really notice this when you get out to 200 yards.</p><p>I settled on Winchester brass that was purchased as loaded ammo. This gave the most consistent seating forces and best groups in my .308 and .243.</p><p></p><p>I then acquired a handful of Norma brass for the .243, WOW I was now shooting tighter groups with this brass than my best Winchester brass.</p><p></p><p>I then decided to buck up and get some Lapua brass for my .308 as the Winchester I had was failing (due to pushing the shoulder back too far) and stock getting low and what I was finding was not good.</p><p></p><p>Now all I shoot from my 243 and .308 is Lapua I almost feel I am wasting components if I load into other makes of brass.</p><p></p><p>here is a not impressive group with different loads shot at banner (100 yards) with a tall bipod on my .308,, no rear support other than my shoulder, I was not trying to shoot good group only empty the cases to reload them.</p><p>The loads in the group were 155amax with 44 gr IMR4064 and 168A max with 42.5gr RL15 and then 168Amax with 42.5gr varget and some with 42 gr varget</p><p>and one hot 178 a max round that shoots to the left.</p><p></p><p>I also found that my tightest groups at 100 yards are not my tightest groups at 200 yards and farther, So if you decide on a good load at 100 yards and know you will shoot it farther then you need to shoot at paper to see how it groups farther out.</p><p></p><p>My best group at 100 yards was .376" but that opened way up at 150 ,, then my best group at 275 yards was 1.050" and at 100 yards that same load would print .75"</p><p>Fine with me to look so so at 100 if you hold together on out there.</p><p> Sorry if I may be off topic on your original question .</p><p>Just giving you things to think about,, I spent a lot of money and time chasing accuracy, it was fun though.</p><p></p><p>Oh yea the target I shot yesterday with the mixed loads I posted above.</p><p>[ATTACH]48461[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="swampratt, post: 2756387, member: 15054"] you can also have dies made or take cheap lee dies and hone the die body out some and I have honed one where the neck is no longer sized. Basically made a body sizing die.. then run the case through the lee neck sizer. Many ways to get to the point of minimal brass sizing which greatly reduces case stress. But for accuracy you may find that the OAL of the round makes much more difference in accuracy than how you size the case. When searching for accuracy take a note of how much pressure is needed to seat each bullet. I found with R-P and Federal brass I was having some bullets seat easily and some seat really hard. This showed up on paper as fliers.. you really notice this when you get out to 200 yards. I settled on Winchester brass that was purchased as loaded ammo. This gave the most consistent seating forces and best groups in my .308 and .243. I then acquired a handful of Norma brass for the .243, WOW I was now shooting tighter groups with this brass than my best Winchester brass. I then decided to buck up and get some Lapua brass for my .308 as the Winchester I had was failing (due to pushing the shoulder back too far) and stock getting low and what I was finding was not good. Now all I shoot from my 243 and .308 is Lapua I almost feel I am wasting components if I load into other makes of brass. here is a not impressive group with different loads shot at banner (100 yards) with a tall bipod on my .308,, no rear support other than my shoulder, I was not trying to shoot good group only empty the cases to reload them. The loads in the group were 155amax with 44 gr IMR4064 and 168A max with 42.5gr RL15 and then 168Amax with 42.5gr varget and some with 42 gr varget and one hot 178 a max round that shoots to the left. I also found that my tightest groups at 100 yards are not my tightest groups at 200 yards and farther, So if you decide on a good load at 100 yards and know you will shoot it farther then you need to shoot at paper to see how it groups farther out. My best group at 100 yards was .376" but that opened way up at 150 ,, then my best group at 275 yards was 1.050" and at 100 yards that same load would print .75" Fine with me to look so so at 100 if you hold together on out there. Sorry if I may be off topic on your original question . Just giving you things to think about,, I spent a lot of money and time chasing accuracy, it was fun though. Oh yea the target I shot yesterday with the mixed loads I posted above. [ATTACH=CONFIG]48461[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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