Looking at a 686 4' ,houge grip. Looks okay. Or would I be better off with a GP100 Whats a good used price. It's at a pawn shop. I'm sure he didn't give much for it.
What does he want for it?
I saw a 6" today at Medlock for around $600 if I recall correctly.
What dash number? Pre-MIM guns will bring a little bit of a premium. A dead give away is if it has the lock. It's definitely MIM if it has it. I'd say $450 to $575 depending on condition and model.
he said its a 686 3 what the 3 means I don't know but I remember it had BHS7551 on it
Also what should I be looking for in the wear department on a stainless wheel gun?????????/
-3 is good to go and is the "earlier" type with forged parts inside which will bring a premium. My first post's values still apply, but you are now looking at the upper end of the range.
Another way to tell if it has forged parts is if the firing pin is in the hammer. The -3 is the engineering revision level. Here's some info I nabbed off of another site:
686 ''dash nothing'' - 1980
686-1, 1986 - radius stud package and floating hand
686-M - 1987 recall stamping on earlier versions
686-2, 1987, hammer nose change, bushing and ass'd parts
686-3, 1988, new yoke retention system
1990 - 2 1/2" barrel introduced.
686-4 ........ 1994 thru 1998 - many changes including move to 7 shot, sight changes etc.
Another way to tell if it has forged parts is if the firing pin is in the hammer. The -3 is the engineering revision level. Here's some info I nabbed off of another site:
686 ''dash nothing'' - 1980
686-1, 1986 - radius stud package and floating hand
686-M - 1987 recall stamping on earlier versions
686-2, 1987, hammer nose change, bushing and ass'd parts
686-3, 1988, new yoke retention system
1990 - 2 1/2" barrel introduced.
686-4 ........ 1994 thru 1998 - many changes including move to 7 shot, sight changes etc.
Sweet it does have the pin in hammer. Still wondering how to tell if its worn out? I didn't think they really could wear out.
Look through this thread. It is a very good write up on what makes them tick and has the major things to look for covered. This applies to all modern S&W DA revolvers whether blue steel or stainless. The timing is good if the cylinder stop engages BEFORE the hammer falls in DA and if fully engaged when cocked for SA. Open the cylinder and spin it to see if the ejector rod is bent. If it passes those it is in all likelihood just fine. You can also take some feeler gages with you to check the stuff in this thread:
http://www.okshooters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98175
Edit to add: 686s are L frames and are very robust. They were designed for full house magnum ammo in large quantities. It's pretty hard to shoot them loose.
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