UPDATE: I want to thank everyone for the recommendations and input. I never really thought about having a problem with an electronic lock (Kaba Mas LC Series) until it happened, and I could not open my safe. I googled information and watched many YouTube videos trying to identify a possible solution to my problem. I also had an identical working keypad from another Cannon safe I have, and it would not activate the solenoid to open the lock inside the safe door. Although Cannon customer service walked me through troubleshooting and sent me a new replacement NL electronic keypad and lock, the labor to drill the safe open and replace the lock was not covered under their warranty.
Mark Wells of Safe 1 (405-715-3555) (Security Systems - Safe 1 | Midwest City, OK 405-716-3555) in OKC was able to drill open my safe and install a new S&G mechanical dial lock. Mark did a great job, and the dial ring covered the repaired drill hole he had to make to access the lock inside the door. Mark was very knowledgeable and thoroughly explained what he was doing and why. He also got me a new S&G mechanical dial lock to replace the Kaba Mas LC series keypad lock I have on another Cannon safe I have. After this experience with having an electronic lock inside the safe door go bad, I have more confidence in a mechanical dial lock. I realize the mechanical lock can go bad, however, I believe the chances are less likely. I recommend Mark Wells if your safe lock goes bad and needs replaced. Mark gave me an upfront price range for his services, and I believe his charges were reasonable based on the expertise and time it took to drill open the safe. I will use Mark if I ever need a safe technician again.
Drilled a few myself glad you found a good smith!
If you don't want to do it yourself, you should give Mark Wells at Safe 1 a call. I listed his phone number in my previous post. He did a good job replacing my electronic keypad lock with a mechanical dial lock.
Did the solenoid inside die? Was that the problem all along?
I believe that was the problem. I tried the troubleshooting steps recommended by Cannon and that didn't work. The reason I firmly believe it was the solenoid, or board inside the safe, is when an identical working keypad would not activate the solenoid to open the safe.
I'm a long ways from Midwest city. Between 150-200 miles one way.
Have you thought about loading the box on a trailer, and taking it to them? Or if the safe isn't worth much just saw it open, empty, get new box.
My electronic keypad still works, I'm just changing to mechanical .
