Stuck SVT Muzzle

[Finnished]

Hello all,

I recently acquired a Finnish SVT-40 in surprisingly great shape. Its a pre 68 import, so its been here a while and has no visible rust. It does have quite a bit of residue buildup in the gas system.

Ive been able to get all of that loose, but can't seem to get the muzzle brake/front sight assembly loose despite the removal of the gas key etc. Ive seen folks on YouTube simply tap that key out and easily unthread the muzzle, but no dice for me. Anyone have experience with SVTs or have any suggestions? Have had some kroil soaking into the threads, heated it up a while with a hair dryer, stiff as can be. Thanks,

Logan

 

[dlbleak]

Transmission fluid or a mixture of old gas and used motor oil works wonders.
I would rig something up that allows the brake to constantly sit on the fluid. Might take a few days. I finally cleaned my 22 can. It sat in transmission fluid for a week before I could get the baffles out. I know, I know, don’t wait so long,right?

 

[thor447]

I am not a gunsmith or a subject matter expert by any means, but my first thought after reading your post is that a hair dryer probably doesn't provide enough heat to do the job.

 

[Finnished]

I am not a gunsmith or a subject matter expert by any means, but my first thought after reading your post is that a hair dryer probably doesn't provide enough heat to do the job.

I figured the same thing. Not in a hurry to bust out the torch unless I absolutely have to. Its just amazing its practically glued!

 

[thor447]

If we weren't so far apart, I'd let you borrow my heat gun. They can be found pretty easily, and are not too expensive. If you get one, you'll find all sorts of uses for it, gun related or otherwise. I just used mine recently to melt the red Loctite on my factory Benelli magazine tube. I had to heat the tube/receiver connection to 250 degrees to break the hold on the Loctite. I use it all the time for various things, such as stubborn sight installations (depending on the type of sight), grip tape installs, and a host of other things. You might give one a try. Just do a little reading up on the finish of those SVT-40 parts, and how hot you can heat them up before you affect the finish. For example, red Loctite is supposed to melt between 250-275 degrees. The factory finish on my receiver and magazine tube was rated for 400 degrees (don't even know if my heat gun could get something that hot), so I had lots of room to work within. Just make sure you know your limits when applying lots of heat.

 

[wawazat]

I have a DeWalt adjustable heat gun that claims it will get over 400* but I have never found a need to test it. If you have fastners that were installed with Loctite, you can also use a soldering iron and hold it to the bolt head for more localized heat.

 

[mr ed]

Have you googled it ? it's all one assembly. you drive out the key, then its LEFT HAND THREADS.
https://www.gunboards.com/threads/how-do-you-remove-muzzle-sleeve-assembly-from-svt-40.163224/

 

[Finnished]

Have you googled it ? it's all one assembly. you drive out the key, then its LEFT HAND THREADS.
https://www.gunboards.com/threads/how-do-you-remove-muzzle-sleeve-assembly-from-svt-40.163224/

Was aware of that from the start. Still no dice though

 

[Finnished]

Decided I'm just going to leave it on there. Some folks on the ak forum said it's likely to just do damage seeing as it's really on there

 

[StLPro2A]

Hello all,

I recently acquired a Finnish SVT-40 in surprisingly great shape. Its a pre 68 import, so its been here a while and has no visible rust. It does have quite a bit of residue buildup in the gas system.

Ive been able to get all of that loose, but can't seem to get the muzzle brake/front sight assembly loose despite the removal of the gas key etc. Ive seen folks on YouTube simply tap that key out and easily unthread the muzzle, but no dice for me. Anyone have experience with SVTs or have any suggestions? Have had some kroil soaking into the threads, heated it up a while with a hair dryer, stiff as can be. Thanks,

LoganView attachment 220480

First confirm right or left threads. Be sure you are turning intended direction. Sometimes, a DUH...... been there, done that. Usually with a bunch of friends watching, laughing. Soak in Kroil over several days. Use short, high heat concentrated over the threads while applying torque, so instant heat expands brake it can turn before heat reaches the underlying metal barrel......an art. Sometimes placing item in freezer to contract the parts, then apply heat to outer part, with torque applied, makes the bond break. Rapping the brake over threads with a brass hammer can break the bond with vibrations...try room temperature first, then under freeze/heat/torque simultaneous application. Use caution with hitting so as not to deform the threads....never again to part. Apply continued vibrations with a vibrator......not the kind you should ask your wife's permission first......over time with torque applied sometimes breaks bond.