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<blockquote data-quote="tulsacrittergetter" data-source="post: 2946595" data-attributes="member: 41264"><p>Great question. POKE1911 is absolutely correct. I liken this to car stereos — while you can buy a great working in-dash CD player on eBay for $100 that works perfectly, Kenwood, Alpine, or Clarion could slap their name on the EXACT same unit, and you're going to pay 2 or 3 times as much because of the brand. Basically, you're paying for the name. <strong>MANY</strong> manufacturers like Spikes Tactical, Palmetto State Armory, Aero Precision, Anderson Manufacturing, etc....they all will typically get their mil-spec lowers from the SAME small handful of U.S. manufacturers and then slap their name on it and mark it up. There are exceptions to this rule, of course, and that would be when there are cosmetic variations on a lower receiver that distinguish itself from standard mil-spec lowers. For example, there could be a flared mag well, or built-in finger grooves on the outside end (closest to the muzzle) of the mag well. These are functional cosmetic differences, and you should expect to pay more for those types of lowers. Other than that, a mil-spec lower is a mil-spec lower is a mil-spec lower. If you are mechanically inclined at all, I would advise you to go the 80% route and take a stab at completing a lower receiver yourself. I did that on my first AR build, and I'm so glad that I did. I did choose a polymer 80% lower, because I knew that a polymer lower would be easier to finish that an anodized aluminum 80% lower would be to complete. I got mine from <a href="http://www.polymer80.com" target="_blank">www.polymer80.com</a>, and it is actually my favorite lower, because it is much lighter than my other lowers (Spikes Tactical, Black Rain Ordnance, and an Anderson lower) My polymer lower is on my 300 Blackout build right now, and I love it. If you don't go the 80% route, I would recommend getting a lower with an open trigger guard so you can customize the trigger guard based on your preferences. This is the only thing I don't like about my polymer lower. If you know you're going to "dress up" your AR like I do mine [pictures of mine below]....with lots of aftermarket "bling" parts, then get a mil-spec lower with an open trigger guard. </p><p></p><p>That's my two cents. Hope that helps.</p><p></p><p>This is my Spikes AR build. It has all the blingy stuff on it.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]82893[/ATTACH] </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]82894[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tulsacrittergetter, post: 2946595, member: 41264"] Great question. POKE1911 is absolutely correct. I liken this to car stereos — while you can buy a great working in-dash CD player on eBay for $100 that works perfectly, Kenwood, Alpine, or Clarion could slap their name on the EXACT same unit, and you're going to pay 2 or 3 times as much because of the brand. Basically, you're paying for the name. [B]MANY[/B] manufacturers like Spikes Tactical, Palmetto State Armory, Aero Precision, Anderson Manufacturing, etc....they all will typically get their mil-spec lowers from the SAME small handful of U.S. manufacturers and then slap their name on it and mark it up. There are exceptions to this rule, of course, and that would be when there are cosmetic variations on a lower receiver that distinguish itself from standard mil-spec lowers. For example, there could be a flared mag well, or built-in finger grooves on the outside end (closest to the muzzle) of the mag well. These are functional cosmetic differences, and you should expect to pay more for those types of lowers. Other than that, a mil-spec lower is a mil-spec lower is a mil-spec lower. If you are mechanically inclined at all, I would advise you to go the 80% route and take a stab at completing a lower receiver yourself. I did that on my first AR build, and I'm so glad that I did. I did choose a polymer 80% lower, because I knew that a polymer lower would be easier to finish that an anodized aluminum 80% lower would be to complete. I got mine from [URL="http://www.polymer80.com"]www.polymer80.com[/URL], and it is actually my favorite lower, because it is much lighter than my other lowers (Spikes Tactical, Black Rain Ordnance, and an Anderson lower) My polymer lower is on my 300 Blackout build right now, and I love it. If you don't go the 80% route, I would recommend getting a lower with an open trigger guard so you can customize the trigger guard based on your preferences. This is the only thing I don't like about my polymer lower. If you know you're going to "dress up" your AR like I do mine [pictures of mine below]....with lots of aftermarket "bling" parts, then get a mil-spec lower with an open trigger guard. That's my two cents. Hope that helps. This is my Spikes AR build. It has all the blingy stuff on it. [ATTACH=full]82893[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]82894[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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