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Thoughts on revolvers
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<blockquote data-quote="dennishoddy" data-source="post: 3424277" data-attributes="member: 5412"><p>I have a S&W K-22 Masterpiece in .22 RF with one of the finest triggers I've ever felt on any gun right out of the factory that was given to me after it's original owner died, and I have a lot of aftermarket or reworked triggers in all of my guns.</p><p>Single or double action it would cease to rotate before firing all the rounds. Took it to a Smith that was supposed to know S&W revolvers. He Checked the cylinder to see if it was loaded, seeing it wasn't loaded, closed the cylinder and pulled the trigger 6 times on empty cylinders. Said it was just fine, no problems.</p><p>Are you kidding me? I got it back from him and he had dimpled the rim face of every chamber with the firing pin. You don't dry fire a .22 rimfire Smith. Even I knew that.</p><p>Then it was really a jam-o-matic. I had to remove the ridges around the dimples to make it cycle but it still had the original problem of not cycling on some cylinders without dragging.</p><p>Finally figured out by looking at the cylinder gap on the barrel that it wasn't correct. If I remember right it should be .006 gap. It was .006 on some and as it rotated, the gap closed until it caused the cylinder to drag on the barrel. It was in time though. A buddy had ran into this and he had a tool that could remove a small amount from the barrel by removing the cylinder and putting this cutter on the barrel to remove a couple thousands of an inch. It works perfectly now but it still doesn't maintain .006 all the way around. More like .007 to .001 now. I've had it at a couple eat and shoots.</p><p>This is a pistol built in the 40's. I suspect the machining errors wouldn't happen now with the CNC machinery that is used.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="dennishoddy, post: 3424277, member: 5412"] I have a S&W K-22 Masterpiece in .22 RF with one of the finest triggers I've ever felt on any gun right out of the factory that was given to me after it's original owner died, and I have a lot of aftermarket or reworked triggers in all of my guns. Single or double action it would cease to rotate before firing all the rounds. Took it to a Smith that was supposed to know S&W revolvers. He Checked the cylinder to see if it was loaded, seeing it wasn't loaded, closed the cylinder and pulled the trigger 6 times on empty cylinders. Said it was just fine, no problems. Are you kidding me? I got it back from him and he had dimpled the rim face of every chamber with the firing pin. You don't dry fire a .22 rimfire Smith. Even I knew that. Then it was really a jam-o-matic. I had to remove the ridges around the dimples to make it cycle but it still had the original problem of not cycling on some cylinders without dragging. Finally figured out by looking at the cylinder gap on the barrel that it wasn't correct. If I remember right it should be .006 gap. It was .006 on some and as it rotated, the gap closed until it caused the cylinder to drag on the barrel. It was in time though. A buddy had ran into this and he had a tool that could remove a small amount from the barrel by removing the cylinder and putting this cutter on the barrel to remove a couple thousands of an inch. It works perfectly now but it still doesn't maintain .006 all the way around. More like .007 to .001 now. I've had it at a couple eat and shoots. This is a pistol built in the 40's. I suspect the machining errors wouldn't happen now with the CNC machinery that is used. [/QUOTE]
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