Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
Latest activity
Classifieds
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Log in
Register
What's New?
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More Options
Advertise with us
Contact Us
Close Menu
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Forums
The Water Cooler
General Discussion
Ungrounded to grounded
Search titles only
By:
Reply to Thread
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="scramp" data-source="post: 3897789" data-attributes="member: 51142"><p>I agree with Duck Hunter on his layout. By <strong>current code</strong> any<strong> sub</strong> panel has to be fed with an insulated neutral and separate ground. Your bare center conductor is used as a combination ground/neutral system. You may be grandfathered as an existing dwelling so that may be OK. That's why new range and dryer plug are different today.</p><p></p><p>When you get you new panel, the box should have a separate loose, possibly green, bonding screw. This bonds the neutral block to the panel frame. This would not be used if you had two new separate wires. There should be a hole in the neutral block that aligns with a threaded hole on the back panel. Use this screw to electrically combine them.This provides continuity because you are only using the old bare wire for both a ground and neutral.</p><p></p><p>The wire coming is a pretty good size. Look in your main panel to see what it is fused at. That will show you the amp limitations of you new panel.</p><p></p><p>The original wiring should already have a ground inside the Romex. They didn't include it for a short period after WW2. If they didn't just clip it off, you may be able to use what you have. The down side is it's all probably 14 gauge wire as they never anticipated back then all the electrical equipment being used today. Upgrading to 12 wire is preferable for receptacles and other work loads.</p><p></p><p>Good luck and when in doubt, ask the question.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="scramp, post: 3897789, member: 51142"] I agree with Duck Hunter on his layout. By [B]current code[/B] any[B] sub[/B] panel has to be fed with an insulated neutral and separate ground. Your bare center conductor is used as a combination ground/neutral system. You may be grandfathered as an existing dwelling so that may be OK. That's why new range and dryer plug are different today. When you get you new panel, the box should have a separate loose, possibly green, bonding screw. This bonds the neutral block to the panel frame. This would not be used if you had two new separate wires. There should be a hole in the neutral block that aligns with a threaded hole on the back panel. Use this screw to electrically combine them.This provides continuity because you are only using the old bare wire for both a ground and neutral. The wire coming is a pretty good size. Look in your main panel to see what it is fused at. That will show you the amp limitations of you new panel. The original wiring should already have a ground inside the Romex. They didn't include it for a short period after WW2. If they didn't just clip it off, you may be able to use what you have. The down side is it's all probably 14 gauge wire as they never anticipated back then all the electrical equipment being used today. Upgrading to 12 wire is preferable for receptacles and other work loads. Good luck and when in doubt, ask the question. [/QUOTE]
Insert Quotes…
Verification
Post Reply
Forums
The Water Cooler
General Discussion
Ungrounded to grounded
Search titles only
By:
Top
Bottom