First time boat owner

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dennishoddy

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Pretty much planning on having, or already have most of the things you mentioned. Do you have suggestions on brands for the auto life jackets?

with my rewiring of the boat I’m using a switch panel that not only has a 12v power port, but also USB.

I’ve read that spray foam is not closed cell? I’m planning on using expanded polystyrene board under my planned aluminum floor and in unused gaps under seats (if there isn’t already foam there and shoved into spots under my planned storage area/deck. I forget what the formulas were, but if I remember right I’m estimating that I’m getting rid of 30lbs and adding 5-600lbs worth of floatation. I’ve seen a few guys who have been swamped by waves or some jerk in a wakeboarding boat, and the foam saved not only their hide, but the boat and all the gear too. They just putted to the shore, bailed out the boat, and got back after it.
If your putting in some items like USB ports, etc keep in mind that some sport an LED or like a radio, use a tiny bit of power to maintain the radio settings. (Mine does)
Those tiny power drains will result in a low/dead battery after a couple weeks of storage.
Invest in a good dedicated to the boat battery charger/maintainer that will float a bit of a charge to overcome the electronics drain and keep the battery at 100% charge when your ready to go.
 

swampratt

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For many years I had 2 batteries in my vehicle hooked up.
When I got to the lake with my boat one would come out and be the boat battery.
My 2000 continuous watt Inverter worked better in the vehicle with 2 batteries also.
 

montesa

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For many years I had 2 batteries in my vehicle hooked up.
When I got to the lake with my boat one would come out and be the boat battery.
My 2000 continuous watt Inverter worked better in the vehicle with 2 batteries also.
Eventually I want to spend the money for a double high end battery setup in my truck. Optimas Probably. Little money for the extra juice.
 

HoLeChit

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If your putting in some items like USB ports, etc keep in mind that some sport an LED or like a radio, use a tiny bit of power to maintain the radio settings. (Mine does)
Those tiny power drains will result in a low/dead battery after a couple weeks of storage.
Invest in a good dedicated to the boat battery charger/maintainer that will float a bit of a charge to overcome the electronics drain and keep the battery at 100% charge when your ready to go.
My current battery box has a battery disconnect, and my plans include relocating the battery and having a disconnect on it as well. I currently have a charger/maintainer wired in to the system, going to run with it for now, when I decide what I want to do battery wise I’ll decide if I wanna change it. Currently the previous owner put a regular car battery in, and I have a pair of group 31 optima yellow tops laying around in the garage practically brand new. I’m thinking of selling all three and buying a lithium battery. I have a pull start motor, don’t really need the CCA, so I think I’ll just get a dedicated lithium deep cycle like used for solar power systems.
 

HoLeChit

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For many years I had 2 batteries in my vehicle hooked up.
When I got to the lake with my boat one would come out and be the boat battery.
My 2000 continuous watt Inverter worked better in the vehicle with 2 batteries also.
I ran across a guy on Facebook that built a lithium battery into a watertight pelican case, with power plugs coming out of the box. He could plug it into his boat, remove it for charging, or remove it and stick it in his campsite for aux power for other stuff. I really like the idea and am considering it.
7A239259-CB39-4A02-A16E-73759E78585C.jpeg
8A3B72E2-250C-4B89-9011-57DD3AA7ABC0.jpeg
 

HoLeChit

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