PID temp controller for Lee lead pot

[ok-22shooter]

Sharing a project I made up a while back. I have been casting bullets on and off for over 40 years. picked up 400 pounds of wheel weight/lead over the last year and starting to turn into projectiles. Lee leads pots have a very rudimentary temp control with no read out. Purchased a PID on/off controller with solid state relay on Amazon along with a few thermocouples and box enclosure. The forum CastBoolits has lots of people that have assembled a controller. I did mine a bit different as the heat sink on the relay can get pretty warm so I mounted it on the out side of the box, fins are shown on back of box. It is wonderful to have something like +/- 2 deg C temp control over the lead. Bought wrong (degrees C) readout controller. Also easy to change lead temp based on conditions at the mold/bullets. I pulled apart a couple of control panels that were being scrapped and have 3 more controllers and industrial relays. I have a second small Lee pot that I plan on using a high tin mix and cast 230 grain bullets for 300BO. Looking for a hot plate I can use to pre-heat molds. Would be glad to discuss the build with any one that wants to give this a try. Also looking for info from members that are currently powder coating bullets.

 

[Cold Smoke]

Have you been able to detect any improvement in consistency since improving your temperature control? I’m not a caster, but it seems like easing up to your melting point instead of blasting past it would reduce fuming too. Nice work.

 

[ok-22shooter]

While the controller has the ability to calculate PID output (ie: 0 to 100% output), the actual output to the relay is on/off 120VAC going to the heater. In theory, it could pulse the output varying from always on to only on maybe 10% of the time. 100% on does not give much ability to slide up to the temp. If there was a way to vary the amount of current, it would make sense to tune the output. I set the temp to 5 to 10 degrees C under the temp I expect to cast at. Also 20 lbs of lead will not be the same temp when part is still solid. It takes about 30 minutes or so to get everything stabilized. In the past, I had a big pot of lead on a propane burner and would refill the Lee pot when it got to 1/2 empty. My propane burner is at my buddies with the 400 lbs of lead. I have a 6 cavity 38 spec mold coming in and now that we are in fall and cooler temps, I will move my equipment over there and hope to cast a thousand or so 38s and 40s.

 

[swampratt]

I do not get fuming from my lee pots unless there is something in the lead like wood or plastic or grease.

I preheat my molds by laying them on top of the melting pot.
Some molds need a propane torch but I never thought of a hot plate.
You can get hotplates for 20 or less new.

I do powder coat most of my lead bullets.
Harbor freight Red was my favorite but they quit selling the red.
White is thin and I do not like it at all for bullets.

I ordered Eastwood Ford light blue and it is excellent.
I use a cottage cheese container to shake /swirl my bullets in.
Toaster oven to cook the powder coating.
I place bullets on the steel tray for the toaster oven on their bases and I have parchment paper on the tray to keep bullets from sticking.

Non stick aluminum foil or regular foil will produce stuck bullets.
Wax paper is a no go also.

Powder coating is super easy.

 

[ok-22shooter]

Will look into the Eastwood Blue. Are you using fingers with rubber gloves to handle the bullets going to the trays
?

 

[swampratt]

Will look into the Eastwood Blue. Are you using fingers with rubber gloves to handle the bullets going to the trays
?

Yes I use my fingers but I do not put on gloves.
I have dry fingers not clammy or oily and after the shake and swirl in the plastic container I open the lid and rub my fingers on the inside of the container coating the tips with the powder coat.

Then I reach in and grab a bullet and place it on the tray.

After they are all placed I close the lid and rinse my fingers off with running water.

You can google best powdercoat for cast bullets.

I do not cast my powder coated ones hard.
No need to as the bullet bumps up quick if it is soft and the powder coat stays stuck like it is part of the lead.
You can smash the bullet flat with a hammer and the powder coat does not break or flake off.

Here is a mushroomed 45 acp I shot that was 50% clip on wheel weight and 50 soft lead coated with HF red. It stays stuck on there.
Now I water drop my bullets and have a towel in the bottom of the 4 gallon bucket.

This towel does not have any fabric softener added in fact washed with All free and clear. no smell no silicones.
I say this because you need to keep the bullets clean and oil free for the powder coat to stick well.
Yes I dry off the bullets before use.

I like to coat them then size them or you can size then coat if you want a fatter diameter.
I have even sized then powder coat them and then size again.
I used to use Lee Alox. I still do for a 30 cal 170 gr gas checked 30-06 load.
But only because I have a jar full of them and I have not tested powder coated in that load.
11.5 gr Red Dot for 1400fps.
Fun round to shoot.

 

[Cowboy777]

I built my own pid. My pc 300 subs are my favorite thing to shoot!

 

[ok-22shooter]

Cowboy777 - is that the Lee 230 grain?

 

[Cold Smoke]

I built my own pid. My pc 300 subs are my favorite thing to shoot!View attachment 426081

Shootable Crayons, whooda thunkit.

Do you know what the coating thickness is and does it not create pressure issues?

 

[swampratt]

Do you know what the coating thickness is and does it not create pressure issues?

You can size the bullets after coating to whatever size you need.
I have .309" and .308" push through sizers and many others.
Lee are the brand and you can hone and polish them to make them a wee bit larger. Heck they are cheap enough you do not feel bad doing it.
I have a .4525" I made for my Hi-Point 45's from a .452" Lee.